"Old wrote:

Easy enough to drain from tractors. Not a good idea to drain to the bilge on a boat.

Thanks for the information. I might be able to rig it up with a drain line into a coffee can or something to capture it. How much oil are we talking about in a day of 6-10 hours of operating?

We just got back from a two day trip to Port Townsend to get 2"x10" 20 foot sticks of norwegian larch for planking. 800 miles for 5 pieces of wood! I have to work today but hopefully can get to the boat tomorrow and take that plate off and have a look.

I also got a note back from the Coast Guard inspector. It seems it may be possible to leave the pony in place if I add some additional safety gear and remove the gasoline tank and fuel lines from the engine room. This is great news, as I can rig up a temporary tank and USCG-approved fuel lines with quick disconnect. I am still going to add electric start and a 24 volt system, but having the original pony still functional is the best of both worlds.

Drip pans are common, look for oil residue on the plate to see if you got a leak. The forward surface of the flywheel will be slinging it around if there is a leak. My 13000 doesn't run enough for me to know if the rear main leaks. good luck

Leakage is going to vary. I don't think any of them stay bone dry and it gets worse with worn bearings, higher engine blow by or sludged up oil return flow at the rear main bearing. Nice thing with the boat is the oil is less likely to combine with dirt and clutch dust to make that nasty black film that you find in the clutch housings.
You will be able to have the best of both worlds with both start methods.

Hi,
if not already suggested, a cause of oil transfer into flywheel housings is from blocked crankcase breathers.
Be sure to check and thoroughly clean the breather canister to be ensure no crankcase pressure can build up and push oil past the non-positive scroll type rear crankshaft seal.
Cheers,
Eddie B.