OM , how ya doin , I have been following chris post with great interest ,I read where you told him about the rear main seal being a weak link , so far my bottom end appears to have been under clean oil , in respect to the oil pump & scavenger bell , should I worry about the seal ? or should at this point I pull the flywheel & harmonic Bal , and replace the seals ? I am still going to try to post some pics , I am a better mechanic than a computer operator , Ha ha
OM , I am not sure you want me to post my tecniques , as I made a puller out of plate steel , and welded a center into the sleeves , pulling off of the head bolt studs , My feelings were the sleeves are shot anyway , A whole lot of Barnyard , But it worked for me . Regards , Chas

CP,
That's exactly what I wanted to hear....come pulling time I didn't want folks to freak out when it was suggested to weld stops or a pull plate inside the liners, at least in the holes where the pistons are down. Also seen holes drilled and taped into the pistons to pull same. Beats pulling the pan & skid plate if you can avoid it. Is a bit of a challenge if trying to salvage parts though. Dealing with main bearings is a whole nother issue. Its pan off for that exercise.

Your engine is about equivalent to a 19,096 up 2U D8 for 1953. They did not come with a rear seal, just the reverse thread return and drain gap. Very much dependent on bearing clearances and crankcase pressure. The front seal was pretty marginal to. Did you catch the service bulletin that edb posted on the seal upgrades for these engines???

OM, did not see the post with regards to the main seal updates , Didnot have areal prosperous day on the 13000 today , I had to drop the front half of the pan , to access con rod bolts , no easy chore !!! got another hole cleared .
# 6 pushed itself up to where I could get at the bolts , but I was just to tired to continue , Also #1 Is free , question is the oil pump has two scavengers , one front one rear , what is the aluminum bell located right next to the oil pump , ?? mine has a hairline crack about 3/4 the way around .Also found a liitle rust on the crank , where the oil journal in the bearing is , may be a little crokus cloth is in order ? Talk to ya soon , Chas

Hi CP,
Appears you have the tractor type sump with three pump sections and the three pick ups, one front, one rear and the main with its suction bell next to it. A used bell shouldn't be to hard to come by. A little "crocus" never hurt anything:)

Here is the bearing/seal info per edb:

Left over from your previous post.... yes it would be wise to replace the front seal.

Can understand you being tired.....serious grunt work:D
Still you are making good progress.

These parts breakdowns should match your crankshaft and oil pump:

Don,t forget the rear main cap needs to have packing cord drove up along each side. The cap has a half moon groove machined up each side of it & when it,s put in place & torqued down it has to have the groove packed with this cord that Cat sells.2B2414 is the number but probably other cord could be used. I made up a punch out of some welding rod to drive it down in most the way & then use a heavier punch at the near end to get it in tight.You can cut the cord in shorter lengths to install it & I always kept lapping it from one side to the other while installing it & not just poke it straight down in.This cord was used in all the older Cat engines till they did away with the screw type crank to return oil to the crankcase & used a different type oil sealing between the flywheel & crank.

Thank s OM & SJ for the info , I probably should get a repro shop manual & parts book . I dont think I will get a chance to work on it till this weekend ,as I stared a new job today , the kind that pays the bills !!!
Thanks again , Chas

Hey Chas,
Good luck on the new job........paying bills .....and eating is pretty high on the priority list:D

Hi OM & SJ , And all others who are following the 13000 saga , after reading and posting on Chris Clarkes thread , What chris said started me wondering , How could that much force be applied to bend A con rod ? This engine was in a
shovel type crane , no way to force the engine by say putting in gear and pushing !!! And if by turning by pony I would think it would have blown the water out of the compression released valves ??? Do you think the pony itself would have enough torque to do the deed ? I need some more input so I can
look for more indications as to what might have happened here , and if I might be better off looking for a donor engine !! Thanks all ,
Charles Poole

Hi Charles,
I'd think the engine would have to be running to create enough inertia to create that kind of force. If there is no evidence of foreign object damage (mechanical) or indication of run away over speed then hydraulic lock would be the most likely. Possible blown head gasket, pre-combustion chamber seal or corrosion hole, hole in liner, plus sabotage would all be candidates.