tiny, I was able to use a 36" pipe wrench on my spanner nut. The wrench hook latched onto ribs and held well. But I didn't have the tracks on LoL

Attached is a pic of my D4 bull gear in its housing with the pinion in the back ground. Looks like you can run a pretty low oil level and keep the gears lubed. Sure would hate to run the sprocket bearing dry.

Mike Mc - Thanks for the excellent photo. It sure helps to see what the inside looks like. My biggest pipe wrench is a 24" so will probably have to conjure something else. Thursday is the next workday on it so wish me luck

Fred aka tinytec

Today I took a truckload of tools to the D4 with determination to tighten up that sprocket spacing. I was hoping the nut would turn easily because it had been constantly oiled by the leaking seal. Well, it turned so easy that I could snap a vise grip on any spanner lug and rotate it slightly It would also turn by using a 1" brass punch and hammer

Worked on it for about a half hour and was feeling delighted that all was going so easy - that's when I saw the nut take a little hop and drop back a little. Would ya' believe the threads are stripped!!!!

Now I'm wondering if I could make a split two-piece spacer to wedge between the outer side of the wicked nut and the housing

Fred - Sad tonight

Hi Fred,
That's bad news and kind of unusual......often froze up but seldom stripped.
Might have occurred during your "stuck" episode.
Afraid the wedge solution won't work....the tightening process actually pulls in the bearing cage, pushing from wedge action would make it worse.

OM, it was probably a pre-existing condition - my opinion because that drive leaked oil a lot after first loading it on the mover's flat bed trailer.

Now I wonder if the threads are stripped on the nut only.

Fred

OM, the instructions you provided for adjusting the final drive sprocket hub bearings refer to a "clamp bolt on the bottom of the holder assembly"

What is the holder assembly, and where is the clamp bolt?

Fred

The holder/cage is what holds the outer bearing. It is split and uses the clamping bolt (on the bottom) retain the bearing adjustment. Pic attached.

Old Magnet, Thank you again for the explanation. I'll be working on the land tomorrow and can look at the parts.

Fred

I took some photos of the final drive yesterday and have a few new questions.

Can a replacement nut be slipped through the end of the outer support, thus avoiding a major dismantling job?

If so where is the best place to buy a replacement nut, new or used? Expensive?

Looking at the photo of the sprocket teeth, what would you say the wear condition is?

Had a bit of luck yesterday. I removed the final drive oil filler cap and set it on the winch, intending to add some oil. Got into other things and forgot all about it, until several hours later. Retraced the dozer path through several fields and found the cap!!

Today is a day of rest to heal the weary bones and new blisters

'til next time,

Fred

Hi Fred,
Sorry, there are no short cut methods to this job. Dismantling is required.
Also you should look for both replacement adjusting nut and threaded bearing cage. Good used would be fine. Try local tractor salvage yard, post in BB classifieds or try www.tractorparts.com .
In your case I would recommend pulling the entire final drive assembly and taking it to someone who has the pullers, press and knowledge to check the whole assembly out as a loose final can tear up final drive gears, bearings, seals and sprocket hub splines, depending on how long it has been run in that state.
From your pictures it appears there is still ample life left in the sprocket teeth so as long as the hub splines are ok you should be able to salvage.

Rest up good for this one:D