Hi guys, new to this forum but have already learned a lot from all the info posted here.

Earlier this summer I bought a d6 9u14018 from a neighbour that had sat for a few years. The deal was that I was to buy a running machine and it was with a freshly rebuilt pup motor and the main motor just purrrrrrrs. Main problem I am having is the left hand steering clutch is tempermental, within 4-5 minuts of using the machine the clutch just fades away.......... some days it just does not work from start-up. I tried washing the clutch housing out, using 8 or 9 gallons so far. Then I tried to adjust the free play from the handle, which was 10 1/2 inches, also thinking by moving the adjustment closer to the end of the rod it would put more pressure on the plates. Yet as I was moving the machine around this morning testing it out.... I lost the left clutch completely and slowing going back and forth in a arc, then the worst happened the left hand track dropped off the front idler......... I know later I will laugh about it but right now I don't need this...lol

So I have a few questions for the pro's on here.... If I move the adjustment nuts right to the end will that put more pressure on the plates and solve my problem? could there still be debris on the drum splines? with all those washes? Or is my clutch simply finished..... Previous owner never had a problem with the steering so to me the clutch cannot just wear out overnight.

Next question that may be the hardest to solve how do you put a track on when that clutch doesn't pull lol.....think I will just have to muscle that on with one of the tractors...

Hi DDDfarmer,
You need to adjust the big nut you have pictued so as there is some free-play or you will be holding the clutch partly dis-engaged and it will slip/not drive as you are encountering. Normally about 3" free play on the lever at the handle, sometimes very worn linkages can give 3" here with no free-play at the big nut so watch out for that trick.
Suggest you check the steering booster unit under the fuel tank for correct full oil level, fill with 30W engine oil at the big hexagon plug spout to just about run out, with the engine running operate the steer clutches a few times to push out any trapped air and then re-check the oil level again and then see what happens.
As for the track you will need to back the adjuster right off and try and pull the track back on with a come along or another machine in similar fashion to re-fitting a bicycle tyre---yes, easier said than done--you may pick up other methods by doing a SEARCH thru the SEARCH section of the BB.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Also make sure the steering levers fully return when released. I haven't had to deal with this but I understand one lever out of position can affect the booster operation of the other.

Hi guys,

I was in the process of trying to move those adjustment nuts when I took the picture. When I started the nut was right to the very end of the rod, and the books I have just say to adjust does not say in or out........ I moved the nuts outs close to 1/2 inch and the difference was noticeable. I guess I should have stayed out of the brush and re- adjusted, and tightened that track up before I dropped it.

I have not read anywhere else about the booster affecting the steering, yet I have not checked the oil either..... started to make a nut/ tool to remove the plug.

There are some really nice cats posted all over this site, this won't be one of them. This cat was bought to work...when I want to fix a cat up for show I could always start with our 2 TON still free just not running, will take some pics and post later...

Here is a before pic of the adjustment nut.

Hi DDDfarmer,
at the adjuster nut you have pictured there should be some clearance to give the before mentioned 3" at the s/c levers. My Serv. Manual tells us that there will be 3/16" clearance at the booster actuator piston and the lever roller situated under the odd shped cover on the booster itself. This clearance is adjusted at the big pictured nut. As the steer clutch wears the clearance here diminishes so you have to keep adjusting the clearance back into the linkages. Conversly if the clutch has gained rust between the plates and swollen up there will be more than the adjusted clearance in a previously correctly adjusted system. Also that there should be 1/16" clearance between the end of the hand lever rod and the sliding valve inside the booster at the rubber boot on the front of the unit. Sometimes the boots fail and I guess then the sliding valve may not fully return if jamed by crud/rust etc. I do not recall encountering the situation as described by OM but that does not mean it cannot occur.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Yep, "It's" done it again--out of order!!!!

Having learned from experience very seldom do you need to adjust the linkages on the brakes or steering clutches.Long ago had a d6 that felt like if you could just move it a little more it would release and operator wanted to adjust the linkage which I agreed to,didn't help.It was the throw out bearing going out causing the problem.The old man that fixed it gave me a long talk about leaving things like this alone and looking for real source of the problem.Changed many brake lining and several sets of clutch discs and never adjusted the linkages.

You mention operating in the brush,so watch for small twigs getting between the steering lever and the rubber stop up on floor boards,if the one clutch is not all the way released boaster for the other clutch will engage if try turning the other way.But you probable all ready knew that. Ray

Thanks Ray,
That business with the levers returning all the way and the cross booster effect is what I was referring to.

Is pwr strng booster full to sq drain plug, belo seat @ rear? Be blessed, nik rd4 4g

Sounds like I need to take a really close look at the booster. I do know that the rubber boots around the steering rods looked to be in bad shape. Previous owner stated that there was no problem with the clutches before he parked it. I have not had a chance to get back to the dozer between work and still trying to get the hay crop cut. Reading and thinking about the problem that could be the booster.... Machine sat for 3 years, boots in bad shape... moisture/ rust and dust could be in there holding the piston back... That could explain why the clutch just did not work some times and the exess handle pull.

I think that I will start at the steering rod and work my way back next chance I get. How does that idea sound to the pro's?

If there is debris or rust holding things back is there any danger of pulling the capscrew and removing the rod. I know the spring can force the rod out once the capscrew is removed, but what of the seal #7b4375 and retainer at the end of the rod.. will they stay behind? will have to review the service book again.

Will try to get back to the cat soon and look things over closer. Will keep you posted.

No problem removing the rod and spring. The retainer and seal stays behind and requires a threaded puller to remove after drilling out the retainer pins that the books don't tell you about. Used to be some good coverage in the archives...don't know if it is still there or not. Can guide you through seal replacement when/if you get to that point.