Some guys on here have used a piece of inner tube over the fuel tank fill hole & pressureize it to get fuel to the whole system & to bleed the pumps & nozzles.I,m sure one of them will come back with a little more on doing it.At the shop for dyno testing I had a priming pump connected right into the supply line from the outside supply tank & I primed every engine with it before I tried starting but I did always fill the filter housing before installing the elements to save time.

"Old wrote:

Hi ttman4,
Enterprising in that someone realized they would get filtering of circulated fuel instead of just looping the suction line.
None of the "U" series had dedicated tank return lines. At least not from the factory;)
With a little imagination I guess you could consider the supply line to be both as there was no check valve to prevent back flow.

Ya need a trip to the coast to cool off.....typical fog in the am burning off at about 11:00 temps in the 70's:D

Only fog round here is when the daily heat strokes kick in & my world gets shaky & foggy....face gets red, mouth dry.....pub time!:cool:

Question....#1...does coolant circulate over to part of fuel filter housing to warm up fuel?
#2....wonder roughly how long it takes fuel to go from/thru lift pump, thru filter housing, then thru injection pump? I'm guessing roughly about a gal...more or less??
Reason I ask....I been playing round off & on setting up my WVO stuff on this thing. I got fuel temps at about 170deg going into lift pump after my heat exchanger.....that's with coolant temp at about 180deg.
But then I'm not sure how much heat is lost as fuel is going slowly thru filter housing etc....
I mentioned on some other posts in last few weeks about having trouble getting coolant temps up etc. I think I loose some temps when I plumbed into the bottom of thermostat housing, circulated it thru my heat exchanger, thru WVO tank, & then back into lower radiator hose......lots of coolant being pumped from waterpump, but not thru radiator.
Actually, seems to keep coolant cool enough for engine, but still having to run "feed sack" winterfront over radiator to keep temps up to 180deg or so. I don't cover the oilcooler though.

maybe I got too much time on my hands to experiment with stuff I shouldn't...

Hummm....how'd I let this thread go from "D4injectors" to "Temps"....?

Hi ttman4,
That "so called" heating function was another of Cat's follies. Fact is it's a blind chamber that does not circulate.........does make a very good mud and sediment trap though....along with corresponding corrosion pitting. The feature was eliminated on later models.

Fuel flow rate would be pretty low.....whatever the use rate/hr would be for the load applied. Don't know what that is off hand but could research it.

I suppose you could put some kind of restrictor in your heating/cooling loop to slow down the flow. That circuit was used for engine heater and flow/temp sensing on stationary engines where free flow was preferred.

"Old wrote:

I suppose you could put some kind of restrictor in your heating/cooling loop to slow down the flow. That circuit was used for engine heater and flow/temp sensing on stationary engines where free flow was preferred.

Yeah, I put a 1/2" ball valve reduced down to 3/8"on each end of loop. I could restrict at top coming out of ther. housing.
However, I restrict, then I don't heat fuel as much......win & lose!

(I found out one thing though, that waterpump pumps lots water, even idling!
Early June I had both valves turned off, hose from housing end in hand, turned valve on & squirted the wifey.....from about 100' I had no idea she could cover that 100' that fast! I'm finally getting able to creep round unaided....)
Actually, I about figured out that playing with WVO is gonna work in summertime better. Or be planning to work machine for longer runs....no short runs to the store. Takes too long to purge etc.

Not only still hot & dusty round here, got pretty smoky too....I may just run away from home.....Yup! The coast!!!

As some of you might know my D4 has been sitting idle in my pole building for the last four years. I've changed fuel filter, new bypass valve and cleaned the fuel tank and replaced the fuel w new diesel.

While attempting to get main started the pony failed. Not 100% sure but crank is frozen up. Probably broken crank. A farmer in my county has a D2pony that he replaced w an electric start. The pony engine case was cracked by improper antifreeze solution.

Question are D2 ponies interchange able w D4 7U. Would his crank work in my crawler loader?

The d2 and d4 use the same poney