"A" is 5-7/16 in.
"B" is 21/32 in.
"C" is 3/16 in.

"Old wrote:

"A" is 5-7/16 in.
"B" is 21/32 in.
"C" is 3/16 in.

Thank you very much! I'll make one at work tomorrow.

I forgot that the D6 was at your pond project, and if your able to make that tool, you would probably have one of these, they are handy, I always keep one in my vehicle, so I can use it when getting parts, so many times you need to ID threads when doing mechanical things, kind of an indispensable thing to have in ones tool box, no doubt.

I've used a pump-type oil can to fill any rollers that have been leaking, rather than the Cat tool. Even in the dealer shop, they never used the tool. They just stood the rollers on end after reconditioning and slowly poured in a measured amount of oil.
In general, if you have leaky rollers, you nearly always have excessive bushing to shaft clearance, rather than just worn seals .. and the rollers are on their last legs.
Quite often you can top them up, and they will fail totally the next day, as the bushing clearance and shell-to-shaft movement becomes too great, and the seals just let all the oil go within a short period.

"OzDozer" wrote:

I've used a pump-type oil can to fill any rollers that have been leaking, rather than the Cat tool. Even in the dealer shop, they never used the tool. They just stood the rollers on end after reconditioning and slowly poured in a measured amount of oil.
In general, if you have leaky rollers, you nearly always have excessive bushing to shaft clearance, rather than just worn seals .. and the rollers are on their last legs.
Quite often you can top them up, and they will fail totally the next day, as the bushing clearance and shell-to-shaft movement becomes too great, and the seals just let all the oil go within a short period.

I had a carrier roller leak on me last year, I took it apart, and the reason it was leaking is because one out of the 4 seals was rock hard and deformed.

The track rollers are pretty much all less than 50% worn, so I don't see why the bushings would be bad, but I have not checked the clerance yet...

Maybe those seals get hard after a while?

I know when I bought the machine, I was told a farmer owned it, maybe he used it sparingly and it sat most of the time. I have had it for going on 4 years, and have maybe 500 hours on it. Which is not a whole lot...

I guess I won't know until I take the rollers off and go to reseal them.

Yes, the toric rings behind the duo-cone seals can, and do, go hard, thus not keeping the pressure on the seal faces. If your rollers are only 50% worn on the tread of the shells, you may be lucky enough to still have satisfactory bushing clearance, and the problem is just hardened rubber in the toric rings.
In that case, replacement of just the duo cone seals will be economic.

In general, though, once the seals are leaking oil, they are letting dirt in .. so that is a process that allows accelerated wear. You need to measure bushing-to-shaft clearance accurately to determine if they meet "reusability guidelines". As a general rule, any part that is worn 50% or more, is regarded as being past its reusability point, and needs to be replaced.

As there is little more cost in replacing bushings, once you have the roller off and partly dismantled, I'd be making sure those bushings have good life left, by way of highly acceptable clearance, before putting them back.

If you put back in service, rollers with original bushings that have only 30% life left, you won't get 100% life from the roller shells, or the new seals.

As a last resort....follow the directions!!!!!!!

As a general rule, any part that is worn 50% or more, is regarded as being past its reusability point, and needs to be replaced.

Yes, for a contractor who relies on his machine to make money, but not really for someone like me who only uses it for personal use...

Luckily the rollers just started leaking, and I've only used the machine for
~20-30 hrs with these bad seals.

Problem at my lot is, I have no shop, just mud. No concrete pad to safely remove rollers, so I will just be refilling them periodically until I have my shop, which will hopefully be this summer. Then I'll take the rollers off and see what I got.

Anyways, I'll be able to make a tool to oil these rollers just like the CAT tool, no problem.

Quite often you can top them up, and they will fail totally the next day, as the bushing clearance and shell-to-shaft movement becomes too great, and the seals just let all the oil go within a short period.

That is certainly something I'll be watching for as I refill them. Right now I have 2 rollers that are wet all the way around, and 3 others that have drip marks when parked.

I meant follow the directions/instructions for using the tool ( or fabricated substitute) as the proper way of filling along with the description and reasoning for the process.

"Old wrote:

I meant follow the directions/instructions for using the tool ( or fabricated substitute) as the proper way of filling along with the description and reasoning for the process.

Yes, your instructions are helpful. I tried the oil can method and knew I was not properly lubing the rollers as the oil just came back out. Now that I see the passages, I know that I need the tool...

If the CAT dealer wanted $50 I would have still thought that was too much, but would have went for it. $150, no way, that's gouging...