Captain Beans let us know how you are doing with the brush.

So more updates I was able to operate the dozer i was using 2nd gear thinking it was 1st gear that’s why the dozer moved so fast and the engine died easily. I was going to connect the discs but l will have to fabricate a pin with a wide head that won’t go thru the connecting hole it’s hard to explain bc English is not my first language although I lived in Canada 2 years so I’m fluent. I have some photos of the disc harrow and a question:One of the pistons looks like it hs more oil flow than the other because the front bucket tilts so one side is Lowe than the other could this be a sign of low hydraulic fluid? There is some sort of adjusting threaded mechanism that could be tighen to make up for the difference but I can clearly see one piston longer than the other any advice? photos: 

you have adjusting screws (bar like rods that go from the arms to the dozed blade) on the toolbar dozer. The screw on the left side of the dozer looks to be all the way closed. The bar that goes through is used to screw the bar. By lengthening that bar the blade will start to level off. Screw it out until the blade is level. I do this on mine while the blade is off of the ground.

that set of discs almost wants new disks. they have done some work.

Hi Jose,

That D4D looks an awful lot like my D6B. You have all the same levers as I have. Just remember that the throttle increases when you pull the level towards you and decreases when you push it away from you.

.... later that same day.... 

Sorry about the above Jose.  I didn't realize there were 4 pages of responses and posted the above when I got to the bottom of the 1st page.  I see you already got beyond that issue.  Still uncanney that your cab area and dash are pretty much identical to mine.

Hi! So you think maybe I should buy newer bigger discs? The thing is I paid a lot for the disc implement compared to the price of the dozer, what would newer disc blades do better?

So I’m still learning how to operate the machine I uprooted a huge almost 7 feet tall desert yaupon with the front blade, the rootball is huge, no wonder I couldn’t find people here that were interested in taking out these trees with chainsaw/ ⛏️ pickaxe etc

I used the disc to start preparing some 9 hectare plot for pearl millet and sudangrass for the cows I had to increase the offset almost to max to make it dig through the soil we were surprised the blades weren’t digging into the ground in the first few tries maybe this is due to old disk blades. I paid 14k for the dozer and almost 6k for the disks. The dozer runs perfectly fine it starts right up no smoke, does not overheat, steers perfectly to the left but to the right there is some hesitation which is useful for using the disks because of the direction it the set of blades are adjusted it’s not good to turn to the right because there would be too much pressure on the rear blades.

So far I am very happy but I am worried I may have to spend a lot of money buying new blades, but it would be cool if the disks implement could handle even bigger 
Blades to uproot bigger mesquite and huisache what do you think?

I’ll continue test driving the machine tomorrow I have a couple more things I want to try out like fixing a stock pond and tilling a mesquite encroached plot that haven’t been used in some 30 years or so but the trees are about 5 feet tall

some photos:

Left hand turns with the disc --- NO RIGHT HAND TURNS!
Disc looks like it is doing its job - You might like to add some weight to the back gang. Especially on the right side of the disc. It will help keep the disc baldes into the dirt.
Narrow disc tends to ride up on the outer ends of the gangs. When Pulling the disc, try to fill your dead furrow as you progress across the field. In other words, keep your left side to the previous pass. You can set yourself up "lands" so you work as if going around an imaginary line in the field, saves long time making the turns as you progress across the field.

I would consider pushing those trees, brush, etc out before I tried to disc them. That is some heavy brush to expect a disc to cut up. Better to push it out and into a pile, then disc.

Previous posting about the blades being worn out, Yes, you have some wear, I would not get too exicted about re-blading it right now. Make sure the axle shafts are tight, no looseness between blades and spools. Keep an eye on the bearings, you do not want to get wire or other materials in those.

Depending upon how long it has been since that was worked, moisture content, type of soil, etc, will determine the amount of distance between the front gang and rear gang (offset or "kink as we called it") The wider that gap, the more power it takes to pull and the bigger the clods it will raise. Places a lot more strain on the disc too.

Good Luck and glad to have you here on the BB.
CTS

Everything ctsnowfighter said is the way I would do it. In theory a smaller blade cuts more than bigger one. You have more surface area in contact with the dirt with a bigger blade. I did a real quick search for prices on a 32 inch disc blade. The one place that had a price was $300/ per blade that adds up fast. And your disc might even be needing 36 inch blades. So add weight and wait for a rain to soften up that ground.

Another method I have read about is run your dozer blade one inch off the ground and break the top growth off, let it dry. Then burn all the dry stuff and then start discing to pull and cut the roots. The Australians had disc plows special made for this kind of work. Each disc was spring loaded to rise up over bigger roots that would break a disc blade. But I have only seen pictures on this and other forums. Don't know if any of those disc plows ever made it to North America.

ray, grizzly manufacturing make them. they are ironically called "tiny" they are nothing of the sort being designed to go behind a d8n or similar power wheeled tractor.

add weight to make the discs dig. they wont dig much in hard dry ground. drag implements rely on there own weight to work.
to improve the pasture you may have to rip it first and then disc it to brake up the ground better. as the weed growth is so thick it might be worth burning it to reduce it first, then sweep it up with the dozer blade then burn the heaps followed by discing and sowing with pasture seed.

you implement has scalloped discs fitted when the scallop is almost worn off so the disc is almost round its time for replacement.

yep keep a check on those bearings and keep them greased lightly if you spin a bearing in its housing its a "fun" job to fix them. the bearings are readily available but are a little pricey. most are held in with a circlip either side of the bearing. you can also still get the bells and cast washers(cant think of their proper name right now)
ive done some and dad has done a lot more as he used to build them when he worked for bonel bros.
and keep the retaining nuts tight on the axles. loose nuts allows the disc to spin on the axle which will destroy the axle stuffed bearings are often a precursor to this.

you should be able to grab a disc and rotate that gang easily by hand(wear gloves the edge of the disc gets sharp)

r.h bare and co(bareco) have a large range of discs and other plow share and tyne points for reasonable prices they sell a range made by lapina in spain from boron steel which has good wear properties and lasts well. they have stockists all over the world www.bare-co.com