I have a newly acquired D6 but found part of an oil ring in the  drain oil when changing oil and motor runs bad with oil coming out the stack  in spots. Reading leades me to believe parts are hard to come by for the pony motor. Can I update? Where would the starter mount and is there a source for a kit? Serial number is 8U8462. Thanks for the help.
Good evening. After doing a compression check I found both cylinders on the pony to be 75 psi. nolt sure how good this is but does start and crank the diesel --sometimes. Going to replace the plugs but found a lot of folks recommend D16 from Champion but thread size is , I think 18mm (early or late model?) and existing plugs have 14mm and NGK XR4. Is  the NGK XR4 the correct plug and is it a good one? Is there a  better cross?
I am considering the electric start but not sure where it would mount. Any ;pics would be appreciated.The pony is great when and if it starts--very hard starting. appologize for the typing--I use the Columbus method-discover and land. I appreciate all of your posts!!!

well you may have to drill you bell housing for the starter. look down below the pony motor pion handle for a razed part of the casting that would look like a starter hole. either way you shake the tree it seems to be about the same 1000.00 too rebuild a pony motor or fit a electric starter. so I guess if you live in a warm climate or not about starting ads.

definitely try new plugs. my d7e pony was dragging and smoking, barely starting the diesel. i replaced with new plugs a couple days ago and it now runs like a new motor.
clean plugs on my d64u make the difference in starting or not. they are champion d16.

Reejoes I have discovered that when I find a spot for the choke and throttle for the pony to run good, I leave it there for starting and all. Mike Hudson

D7 has a completely different starting motor than a U series D6. The D7 could well be the 18mm plug size. The 8u D6 is not that big. Working on the D6 pony motor general opens a can of worms. Such as the trust bearing tends to come lose with the pin arrangement. Meaning you need to grind the crank most times. Those engines can run at very low compression. As Mike stated find the sweet spot, on the choke and throttle settings. Then run pony out of gas so float does not bounce flooding the carb and diluting the oil in the crank case. So you need a working valve on gas line.

If you have a plate under the pion handle with 3 bolts holding it yours is drilled to take a direct start starter.

Thanks to you all. Good info. Did not find a plate attached for a direct drive electric start motor. Will move forward with new plugs and maybe wires.

clean the points too.
the plug leads must be proper wire not silicone suppression. and the metal crimp ends.
have a look at the mounting are for the magneto if its rusty or encrusted in dirt and crap take the mag off and clean up the faces a little no2b pencil rubbed on can help improve a weak mag and give better spark. check the spark before hand if its nice and fat and blue its fine.

as mike said find the sweet spot with the choke and throttle levers and leave it set some engines are fussy and if not in the zone wont start and run properly.
a carby kit and sonic bathing the carb may help too. most small engine shops have a sonic bath machine.

parts are available to rebuild the pilot engines its just the machining isnt cheap. and they have some know issues.

if yours doesnt have the bolt on plate it might just have a slightly raised area on the bell housing with dimple marks for drilling.

Finding the fuel shut off/sediment bowl does not shut gas off. Looks to be a different model than Cat (Red). Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement that fits onto the gas tank and can be shut off easily? I still want the sediment bowl so I can see gas/Dirt. Thanks in advance.

do what we did get rid of the factory set up fit a normal brass fuel tap and a generic plastic inline fuel filter they cost under 10 bucks at any car parts joint. ryco part no z346. for under 50 bucks your back in business with a filter the tap and some fuel hose and a few hose clamps. and you have something that wont break easy unlike glass and it fixes the fuel shut off problem
you can also go to any small engine service and get a plastic fuel tap with built in sintered brass strainer for about 10 bucks too.

I have always avoided in line filters thinking they are for systems with fuel pumps and perhaps not suitable for gravity systems. I have some now that are for ATVs which are gravity. I am going to try, probably a lot more effective than the glass bowl type.