acmoc

ACMOC Membership Benefits

  • FREE quarterly magazine filled with content about antique Caterpillar machines
  • FREE classified listings
  • ACMOC store discounts and specials
  • Full Bulletin Board Access
    • Marketplace (For Sale/Wanted)
    • Technical Library
    • Post attachments

$44 /year ELECTRONIC

$60 /year USA

$77 /year International

Caterpillar twenty two clutch is slipping

More
1 year 4 months ago #249744 by Diecastdiehard!
So I’m having difficulties with the clutch on this machine I push the clutch pedal in then I try to shift it into first gear and I can hear the gears grinding this happens in first second third also in reverse also with the engine off if I leave it in first gear and while trying to crank start the engine, it seems like I should see the crawler trying to move forward if everything is working correctly I’m afraid that the clutch is slipping or deteriorated to the point where it’s just not grabbing.  yesterday I did get it started. It drove forward for about 15 feet and then started slipping and didn’t go anywhere after that. Are clutch plates still available? If not dose anyone have one for sale? I just bought this Cat and would love to see her go. 

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
1 year 4 months ago - 1 year 4 months ago #249748 by bruce oz
Have you tried to ajust it yet ? the main and clutch brake 
www.angelfire.com/home/cat22/book/manual.html
Last edit: 1 year 4 months ago by bruce oz.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
1 year 4 months ago #249754 by Diecastdiehard!
I adjusted the steering clutches according to the book. But I didn’t to the main clutch because it doesn’t look like it needs it according to the measurements in the book. The entire compartment looks extremely rusty inside. Must of had a ton of water in there at some point. I read about washing the compartment with kerosene. I was thinking about doing that. I guess I should try looking at all the adjustments again and Washington compartment before I think about splitting the tractor.  Thanks for your input. 

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
1 year 4 months ago #249757 by kracked1
Also if quite rusty as you say I would get in there with a quality lube on/in every point it moves in the bellhousing. It may just be very sticky and have poor travel.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
1 year 4 months ago #249778 by GrantJ
Your photo shows a tailseat 22. They have a clutch lever rather than a foot clutch like a topseat 22. If the lever is forward (released) the machine should not move at all with cranking or with a running engine. There is supposed to be a clutch brake that slows the transmission parts down when you release the clutch (foot or lever clutch) and it is probably out of adjustment. If you start it in neutral, try pushing the lever forward and see if that stops the gears from grinding when engaging. I dont have my parts book in front of me, but on the foot pedal type clutch there is a spring that has to do with the clutch brake. I assume the lever type clutch also has that spring. If the spring is broken or weak it might not work without keeping the lever pushed forward while engaging.

The clutch slipping may be just someone has over adjusted it or the disc is worn out. I checked a place in Sacramento Calif that relines clutch discs and was told about $135 to do the disc for my 22. I ended up not needing to reline it, but I think the price was good. I bought a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing. I will get my book from the ranch tomorrow and give you the part numbers and what I paid. Splitting the 22 was not a lot of fun.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Busso20

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
1 year 4 months ago #249787 by juiceman
Grant: Not trying to second guess you, but I was told the opposite for the gas tractors using a lever; forward is actually engaged, and you pull back to disengage?
Someone please correct me, for the sake of the original poster. Thanks, JM

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
1 year 4 months ago - 1 year 4 months ago #249788 by Peter C
Gee and Grant, I think that the gas tractors that had a foot pedal clutch release (10, 15, 22 and others) but were ordered or converted to orchard tail seat tractors with the lever work by pulling back on the lever to release the clutch. That also engages the clutch brake if adjusted properly. If the lever is released then the clutch is engaged and power is being supplied to the transmission whether in neutral or in gear.

Pete
Last edit: 1 year 4 months ago by Peter C.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
1 year 4 months ago #249789 by juiceman
Pete: What I should have said was that the 22 does not have an "over center" clutch, so if it had a foot pedal, one had to mash on it to disengage; the lever would have to be held back to disengage? Old timers told me of how they held the lever back for lengths of time, and had to take it out of gear, rather than accidentally losing their grip and making it drive.
I believe you are correct Pete! Thank you. JM

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
1 year 4 months ago #249816 by GrantJ
OK, I am probably wrong on the direction of the lever. I have been wrong before. I was going by my D2s and D4s with lever clutches. My tailseat 22 is not a runner, so I have never tested it. The part numbers for the throw out bearing and pilot bearing are

Throw out: Fafnir 209K or Federal 1209
Pilot bearing is two part. Roller bearing which I dont have the number written down, but I got it from Florin Tractor which is now closed, but it is an available Cat part. The inner race that presses into the flywheel is unavailable from Cat but can be bought from Napa Auto. "Hyatt Pilot Bearing OR304" $88.45 from Napa.
I found the info on relining the disc. (Capital Clutch and Brake) 916-371-5970, Sacramento Calif. I see from my notes that they quoted me $65 to $115 depending on size
I think that the throw out bearing was $35. .

I had not taken the machine apart when I talked to them. Turns out my disc was fine.


I will look tomorrow and find the roller number since it is still sitting on my bench.

I hope it helps, Grant.
The following user(s) said Thank You: juiceman, Diecastdiehard!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
1 year 4 months ago #249830 by Diecastdiehard!
Yes, so the picture up is my other tail seat D2 but my clutch issues are on my top seat twenty two, thank you Grant for the bearing part numbers. I am definitely gonna have to change them at some point. Every time I push the clutch pedal in there is a very loud bearing noise. Also, I believe there is binding in the arm mechanism that pivots on the housing that pushes in the throwout bearing it’s possible there’s so much rust that it’s not actuating back-and-forth. Not sure how to get it that to Lub it. How ever I do live in Sacramento near capital clutch. So that’s good. I work on Florin Rd 4 miles from the now closed Florin Tractor. Major bummer it’s closed now. Who bought up all that inventory?

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.184 seconds
Go to top