gwoods, I am a goose in high weeds. One of the response suggested to find out what is wrong with final drive of d4 74/7U11300; so, I am going to try and split the chain. Two pads removed and pin with divers in it. Track centered in front of front idler. Heated several times and whaled it after each time. Sweaty job and no results. Does anyone have better solution or does anyone know a business that rent a portable track press? If able to split chain will move on to final drive. This should tell me if it’s a part tractor.

First thing you need to do is find the master pin. Try looking at the end of the pins if one is different to all the others then that will be the master pin.If they all look the same then you need to look through the gap between the track links to see if the bush is short or long. Best place to do that is when the track runs around the sprocket. Another method is to use a 6 inch rule and push it in the gap if one is deeper than the others then that is the master pin. I think it should be easy to locate if they are Cat chains.
You will not be able to split the chain unless you find the master pin as the rest of the chain has both tighter pins and interlocking bushes in each link.

whats your location?

Sorry If I misread your post and you have found the master pin (not sure what "pin with divers in it" means)
The best place to remove the master pin is at the lower rear part of the sprocket. Track is almost on the ground. You must have a dolly supporting the track link or you lose most of your hammer force. We used to use a section of railway line. You should also have an intermediate soft drift pin preferably with a handle on it and no flaring. Make sure you have some rag or something on the handle of the drift or you will jar your hands.
Be careful heating it as you can cause it to bellmouth locking it in even tighter and if you do move it the links are stretched in the process.

Several different configurations for master pins -
You do not have to pull pads to break a track - they are bolted to the individual links and are not shared. If they were shared, bolts would shear, possibly breaking links in the process.

Before you get heating and beating on things, know what you are working with, saves body and spirit!

Phil has valid concern -- heat can be your friend or enemy -

I have helped drive master pins out that were nearly cut out with torch, long before this plasma and new gear was around, all we had was VICTOR! We did our best to simply cut an x or blow a relief hole in each end of the pin without overheating the rail! NOT FUN - Slag comes right back at you!

Sprocket is the correct place and two people, one to hold the "punch" and one to swing the hammer. BIG HAMMER - Big Swings --- We used nothing less than 16 # and sometimes a 22# hammer. Takes a lot to swing those but they are very effective!
Keep close watch on the "punch", hit it squarely and do not let it mushroom, those pieces are like shrapnel from a grenade!
WEAR GLOVES - FULL COVERALLS - Long Sleeved and always a FACE SHIELD!

Remember, any slack or slop at the link to the sprocket is wasted energy, keep the clearance to ZERO if possible.
Front Idler --- way too much give, think about what your are trying to accomplish and eliminate all excess play.

As said in above post - you will never break a link unless at the master pin/link --- Tracks are pressed together, both the pins and bushings are pressed into each link and it takes many tons of pressure!
CTS

Hi, gwoods.
Here is a link to a search which I did specifically for answers to your problem - 3 pages of posts.

www.acmoc.org/bb/search?query=master%20p...ildforums=1&start=15

Just my 0.02.

Come on Deas. If everyone did that there would no new threads on these forums. Especially if you put the announcements and of topic in their own forum where they should be..

Hi. PhilC
OOOOPPPSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SORRY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Did I 'transgress'?

Just my 0.02.

there might be a track service near you who does callout work. for a fee they can come and split the track for you. its worth a look in the phone book google search etc your local heavy equipment service will probably have a track press particulary if they work on excavators.

your local cat service mechanic should have a portable track press.

now it wont be cheap but your less likely to break something as they have the gear and the knowledge to use it properly.

Don't waste your money hiring a track press, just hollow or gouge out the ends of the master pin and tap it out with a small hammer, a new pin is cheap in comparison to the hiring costs, also the master pin wears faster than all the others so it is a good idea to replace it. That will keep that link in better pitch and the chains will last longer.

Wombat