that end could be salvaged with a bushing and a new pin i suggest brass or bronze for the bush that way it flogs out and not the steel part. but the ball joint itself needs replacing or pack with green hide leather soaked in neats foot oil

Hi, Mschwartz.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm guessing that the worn joints in question are the ball joint and the spigot in your last photo. I would not be surprised if that part was still available from Cat. That would certainly help to take some of slack out of it and having a new spigot would make it easier to rebuild the receivers on the C-frame 'coz you would have a pattern to work to.

If it is the same as the earlier blade that I worked with - on a 2T D4, 1945 vintage - the spigots are tapered and so are the receivers on the C-frame - makes 'em a little more 'fun' to rebuild or re-bush - can still be done though.

'Course, you could always cut either the front or rear receivers off each side, move them to the center positions and put the worn ones back on in place of the 'borrowed' ones, this would give you better one in the middle and one worn one plus one good one if you ever angle the blade.

Just my 0.02.

Thanks, Deas. Ordered a parts book off of eBay this evening for the 52E series bulldozer so I should be able to do better research. I think that the pin that Old posted must be the pin that secures the pin I want to replace. His tip about needing to add a zero to the old numbers has found me a lot more options. The pins I think had a ball on one end originally and they have been welded up so many times that they don’t fit very well. Last guy had it bolted solid in the straight position, I knew it was rough but needed it angled to push snow the other day. Not needing to restore it but I like my stuff to at least function when I do need it. Looks like the pins are available from 45$ to $400 depending upon the site. Hopefully the cheaper parts will work for limited use. Thanks, Mike

I actually think the receiver parts on the C-frame are actually not that bad.

trainzkid88 wrote:

that end could be salvaged with a bushing and a new pin i suggest brass or bronze for the bush that way it flogs out and not the steel part. but the ball joint itself needs replacing or pack with green hide leather soaked in neats foot oil
 

I would never use bronze in that situation and definitely not brass. There's a reason excavator's, loaders etc pivots use hardened steel bushes. Brass and bronze cannot take the environment and load. Sure you could use bronze/brass and change them out every 60 hours or so.
Not sure how you expect leather to take the load either.