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Can anyone help me with the master pins on my D2 5U

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2 years 1 month ago #241344 by PhilC

Hello Markds3
I may be wrong as I have never worked on a D2 but if you are only working on the clutches and the bevel gear then you shouldn't need to break the tracks.

Regards

Phil
The D2 is notoriously difficult compared to the larger tractors (D4 included) as the only way to access the steering clutches is to pull the final drives, and to do that you need to remove the tracks, track frames, pivot shaft and drawbar.
 

Ah OK thanks for that info. As I said I have never worked on one so I did not know it is such a huge job to access the clutches.

One thing that worked well for us is a big chunk of railway line with the end cut to fit near the pin and the other end anchored. Makes a huge difference flogging track pins out.

944A - Machine SN 43A2589 Engine SN 90A284
955K- Machine SN 71J3772 Engine SN 83Z0704
D6 SN's 4R732sp, 5R2724, 5R4832
D8 SN's 15A1254, 15A2287, 15A2723

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2 years 1 month ago #241346 by Rome K/G

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2 years 1 month ago #241675 by Markds3
Well, after unsuccessfully trying to remove the pins with a sledge, even after applying heat, I was able to borrow a 60T portable pin press from a engineering shop (that builds 30T forestry harvesters) that I do business with. I'm very glad I did, as the master pin on the RHS track approached the limit of the press! No way I was going to move it the way I was trying. It certainly let go with an almighty bang! Very very little pin wear as you can see.
         
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2 years 1 month ago #241676 by Rome K/G
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2 years 1 month ago #241685 by neil
You'll be able to sand the interference fit down a bit so it's a reasonable reinstallation.

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY
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2 years 1 month ago #241703 by trainzkid88
right tools make all the difference. hope fully we never have to split the tracks on our machine.

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2 years 1 month ago #241735 by 3J1Bill
I would consider using a standard master pin when you assemble the tracks. The pin you took out, was pressed in like the other pins and not a correct master pin. Then you won't have any future problem spitting the tracks. Bill

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2 years 1 month ago #241737 by Markds3

I would consider using a standard master pin when you assemble the tracks. The pin you took out, was pressed in like the other pins and not a correct master pin. Then you won't have any future problem spitting the tracks. Bill

Thanks Bill, apparently they are the correct master pin, and are exactly what CAT would supply today if I ordered new ones. I just have no idea why the RHS one was so tight (maybe many years of accumulated dirt and rust?) as the LHS moved much easier and let go with only a small pop.

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2 years 1 month ago - 2 years 3 weeks ago #241741 by 3J1Bill
I have not run into this solid, current pin that is available from CAT. I think a solid master pin would have to be pressed in so it wouldn’t move. There must be some information on this solid master pin installation and removal.  D2-5U13753 - master pins - please check my understanding - ACMOC Bulletin Board - Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club  I forgot about this discussion. Bill
Last edit: 2 years 3 weeks ago by 3J1Bill.

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2 years 4 weeks ago #241755 by neil
I have new master pins for my D2 and I'm planning to have them bored for the tapered plugs which are still available new. I don't need any drama when it comes to master pins. The extremely worn ones I have now stay in place when fitted, and push out almost by hand when the plugs are removed. Just fine for a weekend warrior toy

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY
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