The brake cluch is working bad and if can help am still have some parts for

That would be great, what usually wears out to create the grinding I'm guessing the pads?

 Juiceman, I just put the mercon 3 oil in the oiler cups instead of 30w?  Sounds like a plan! Thank you!

The only thing that I would add would be to make sure the carter pins holding the adjustment screws for the pinion dogs are tight. If they rattle around at all it will cause premature wear of the carter pins leading them to break and can cause the adjustment screws to come loose or even fall into the bottom of the clutch.
I don't know how common this is but three out of three of my 955's had significant wear in the carter pins

So there’s probably about three separate clutches? One to engage the pony motor to diesel shaft one for the engine and tranny coupling via the  gearshift and one to engage the diesel from the pony motor shaft?
I am thinking of the transmission fluid idea working better than ithe 30 weigh is because of the micro abrasives? In that case the newer stuff would be better like mercan low viscosity LV? So if we’re talking about the pony motor clutch having Marcon LV in it where would I lubricate the pony clutch?

G2D2 wrote:

So there’s probably about three separate clutches? One to engage the pony motor to diesel shaft one for the engine and tranny coupling via the  gearshift and one to engage the diesel from the pony motor shaft?
I am thinking of the transmission fluid idea working better than ithe 30 weigh is because of the micro abrasives? In that case the newer stuff would be better like mercan low viscosity LV? So if we’re talking about the pony motor clutch having Marcon LV in it where would I lubricate the pony clutch?

Just use plain old ATF. I am running dexron. It is the fact that it is thinner and doesnt let the clutch disks stick together that helps. You dont need to get the latest and greatest for that.

 

There is a small cover that can be removed if you take the firewall loose and move it rearward. It is about 45 degrees left of top center of the clutch housing. The latch spring adjustments can be reached through this small hole. If the clutch brake lining is not shot so as to need replacement, you might get by with adjustment. Pulling the pony is a last resort, I am told, because the seal between the diesel and pony cooling systems is sorta unobtainable. (?) That last bit is strictly hearsay.

Also, the spring adjustment screws are supposed to have a cotter pin through the boss where they screw in, running across through the screwdriver slot to keep them from backing out. Don't tighten these screws too much; they will fail to release the starter drive when the diesel starts, which will blow something to small pieces... Adjust them down 1/2 turn at a time until they work right.

Locktite is seldom a bad ideas also.

The starter clutch will work more freely if you use ATF or 5W high detergent oil in this case. Bear in mind that it will gradually be diluted by the 30W passed down from the engine and become thicker.

I have never seen a 5J with a wet clutch. You want to remove that drain plug from the clutch housing and replace it only as long as you are working in water. Same foes for the side clutches.

My D2 5J has been with me for a bit over fifty years. It's a good machine but they need a bit of care to stay that way. I hope this bit is of some help to you.

Jack

Squatch’s vids are an exceptional guide. In case it’s not been mentioned seek out the Operators Manual and the Serviceman’s Reference for your machine. There are old threads you can also search through and if you are a Member all referenced manuals are available as a function of that membership. It’s inexpensive as a resource if your tinkering under the hood. “jack’s” recommendations will get you far along.

Best,
bernie

Ok so the lever I throw rearwards before throwing the pinion clutch towards the radiator on startup is just a brake and a gear to engage the pinion shaft 10-4 Thank you!