If I understand Rome, he is saying they are from the starter pinion latch. The leavers you must use to engage pony motor to diesel to start.

By chance do you have direct electric start? If you don't and the pony clutch is staying engaged during the starting of the diesel, someone must have lost those and replaced them with others.

Have electric start for the pony motor, Each time I try and start it I do hear a little gear noise and after it starts and I pull up the first handle to engage the gear before I engage the diesel motor clutch It grind quite a bit takes me about 3-7 seconds of grinding to slow it down to where I actually can flip the clutch Forward, I take it that is not normal

the idea of the felt or cotton string(most are cotton) is its a wick so it draws up oil from the cup and it slowly flows down the wick to wherever the wick tube goes and drips onto the part that needs oil. any good industrial supplier will have wick material

there is a brake as-well in the pinion clutch mechanism. it works opposite to engaging the clutch. the owner book has the procedure.

So I have the parts book trying to find the brake?  I take it might be one of those exterior drum types?  here are some picture takeaways from the parts book..
 
 
   

Thought the screws were from the flywheel clutch coupling assembly but I think they are from the pinion assembly part # 3B5121

Rome Thank you!  looks like I got to pull the pony motor ?!
this must be what is causing the grinding when I flip up the pony clutch before engaging mail diesel clutch (
Anyway Knowing is Half the battle!
Thank you all I'll try and make a video!

The brake discs in the pinion housing are bad, thats what stops the pinion to engage it into the ring gear. Here is a video to repair it, This is how it operates,

Hmm he says for the 5U you have to pull the pony, I wonder if that is only the 5 U?
“Yes, the pony motor drive gear
sticks down into the pinion clutch
housing far enough that the whole
pony motor needs to be lifted to
remove the pinion clutch housing.
You also need to remove the back
cover of the governor for the
diesel engine to get enough
clearance, and there's also one
bolt on the upper rear corner of
the diesel crankcase inspection
cover that has to be taken out to
allow one of the pinion clutch
housing bolts to be removed. It
helps greatly if you can engage
the pinion latches to shorten the housing 
assembly. Be careful not to pry
very hard on the pinion clutch
housing when removing it from the bell housing as the mounting
flanges can easily be broken off.
pony motor removal 


Awesome stuff thank you all!

Try the ATF trick before tearing into it. Automatic transmission Fluid… not the artillery folks. If your pinion latch adjustment screws are still intact, that’s what I would try, no sense tearing into it. Some do not like using ATF instead of 30wt, but it has proven itself here more than once. JM