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Caterpillar Twenty Two electric starter options?
Caterpillar Twenty Two electric starter options?
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2 years 1 month ago #241097
by d2gary
Hyster was founded in Portland Oregon so good chance it is a Hyster winch. Thats a nice looking tractor and looks to be in good shape. I would reroute those hydraulic hoses above the tracks if you plan on using it.
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2 years 1 month ago #241098
by tkgeorge99
Good info. I'll have to investigate further how it works before trying it out. I'm pretty sure it works as it was reported that guy was dragging up logs with it before it was parked. I feel like machine is in pretty good shape overall for sitting out in woods for 20 years. It's going to be exciting getting it out..put... the road it cut in is pretty steep. I feel like it should be able to crawl out but I'm not really sure of capabilities. I feel like a 4x4 truck could negotiate the road so I'm pretty sure it can as well. I'm assuming the cat has gone up and down it previously. I'm guessing hydraulics were added in 60's but I have no way of knowing
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2 years 1 month ago #241103
by neil
It should be able to go most places a 4x4 can, and some that a 4x4 can't. Check the brakes work. Even though you can put it in 1st and idle down hill, it's good to be able to declutch if one side lets go and you need to straighten up in a hurry
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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2 years 1 month ago #241104
by neil
I'll be back home in a few days and can take a few pics of winch. I'm not sure of brand or how it works. It has several levers etc. It appears to be chain driven from pto. There is handle that sticks out from under seat that appears to move side to side to engage pto. I'm assuming I put machine in gear and engage handle to get power to it? It's stamped Portland OR but I can't see make or model.
Yes that handle engages the PTO - the other levers will be for brake and winch clutch most likely. The Twenty-Two and most old tractors did not have live PTOs so the power to the PTO as well as the main transmission is transmitted by the main clutch. Usual operation is you would position the tractor where you want it then shift to neutral and apply the brakes. Then, after you've snigged a log, you then engage the PTO, let out the clutch, and operate the winch controls to pull the log in toward you. Once you have it up at the tractor, you can either attempt to drive away pulling the log, or, release the winch drum and drive away to position for the next pull. You can see that having an arch makes this process a lot easier because once the front of the log is in the air, it will pull a lot faster and usually track better too, at least the front end
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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2 years 1 month ago #241105
by tkgeorge99
Good info. Yep, road is steep. Gotta go up, not down! So I'm thinking worst case scenario is that..... it will lose traction or will it not have enough power to turn tracks? I really doubt it would tip over backwards. At that point, id just have to let it slowly roll back down. Its hard to guess angle or degree of slope.
I will have to try and unjamb pto lever once it's back up at top. So far I've only driven it a few feet forward and backward. It's hard to tell if track clutches are working due to low speed but track brakes allowed me to spin and turn
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2 years 1 month ago #241113
by gauntjoh
If you can get the blade working, a good “brake” is to drop the blade.
John Gaunt, ACMOC Director, UK
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2 years 1 month ago #241123
by tkgeorge99
Good thought, I might not have done that if i was in a panic sliding down the hill backwards. Yes the blade does work, so if I lose forward momentum going up hill and need to re evaluate, I'll drop the blade.
So I guess I have gotten off track from the original discussion thread.... so back to alternative starter options other than the crank.... I'm not a great fabricator but I can weld. Im considering cutting off crank and welding a flex plate off ford truck and then using a Ford truck starter to spin flex plate. I figure I can push in shaft with flex plate and engage engine, have starter spin it , and when engine catches it should disengage crank shaft and flex plate. I figure if it doesn't engage right away, it will just spin flex plate and starter will be just fine. Flex plate on normal engine spins just fine, so it shouldn't bother starter. I'd rather flex plate not spin all the time for safety and I'm not sure I can get it perfectly balanced when I weld it on. Thoughts? Suggestions? Examples?
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2 years 1 month ago #241157
by Ray54
Seems a bit complicated to get flex plate and starter all square. And if you move any brush with blade I guarantee your starter arrangement will get bent. If there is room with the blade kind of in the way to stand in front, the cranking over the top is safe.
But have seen v belt drives put on the hand crank shaft. A handle on the starter motor you pull back to tighten the belt, and a push button in the handle you push with your thrum. But belt would need to be removed after each start as brush would pull it off also.
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2 years 1 month ago #241158
by tkgeorge99
I can see your point, it's quite exposed up there. And I can see it easily getting mis aligned with starter and flex plate.The v belt might be better with starter up outof the way.
Does anyone know where I could get an actual stock crank handle? That might make me feel better than what's welded on there.
And I think I understand " cranking over the top" but just to make sure. I'd engage handle in 10 or 11o clock postion and spin it till 3 or 4 o clock. ?
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2 years 1 month ago #241160
by kracked1
He means over the top of the blade. You always try to crank from 6 oclock to 12 oclock. That way if it kicks it pulls the crank out of your hand and doesnt break an arm.
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Caterpillar Twenty Two electric starter options?
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