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My D4 7U Challanges
My D4 7U Challanges
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Posts: 25
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Thank you received: 2
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2 years 3 months ago - 2 years 3 months ago #239950
by rsilva11
I did not see that it could be adjusted. I was able to get 2 holes of adjustment out of it on the bench and still be able to engage it. That seemed to tighten it up quite a bit. I cant make it slip on the bench anymore. Think that is all it really needed? It was basicly slipping enough where it really struggled to spin the diesel engine if I put force on it I could get it to spin the engine but felt like it was just getting worse fast. I thnk my flywheel clutch and plates are coming in today so I am going to start putting all that back together. Thanks
Last edit: 2 years 3 months ago by
rsilva11.
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2 years 3 months ago #239951
by rsilva11
I was considering just putting the pinion back together as is. Pulled the plate on the brake clutch side to make a new gasket and these bearings are just horribly bad. This far into it I cant ignore them so I guess I continue to break it down.
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2 years 3 months ago #239960
by neil
You've bench-adjusted it enough to be close. Once you get it reinstalled after changing the bearings (which if worn, will hinder your ability to adjust the clutch so they do need to be done), then readjust again. You want a reasonable snap over-center, but more importantly, it shouldn't slip
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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2 years 3 months ago #239961
by Mike Meyer
Look on youtube for Sasquatch instruction video's, he did a excellent one on repairing that starter pinion. To not replace those bearings would be crazy, for the few bucks they cost it's a no brainer, there is also a seal on that shaft too you should replace while you are at it, bearings are 1B5388 and 1B4110, seal is 2A3688.
A lot of folks including me, run ATF in that pinion, it works well.
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2 years 3 months ago #239983
by trainzkid88
somewan that chinese bloke has already butchered that nut a little. yes a c spanner is the right tool. but a brass drift can also be used make sure your driving it the right direction nothing worse than doing up something your trying to undo! the reason for a bras drift is less likely to damage the nut. a few strokes with a file will take care of the existing damage.
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2 years 3 months ago #239984
by trainzkid88
dont be penny wise and pound foolish. change em while it already out and half apart. for probably under 50 bucks at the local bearing shop. 1B5388 interchanges to timken 1304 or skf304
1B4110 interchange to 1208 timken
the easy way is take the old ones with you.
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2 years 3 months ago #240278
by rsilva11
Yea I ordered them. Cost me $50 each on ebay. I have it all apart now and believe I should replace the brass clutches also. Put the flywheel clutch in the other day. lookiing forwrd to getting this together. Thanks
The following user(s) said Thank You:
Busso20
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2 years 3 months ago - 2 years 3 months ago #240288
by rsilva11
I am now looking for this metal clad seal that fits into the start clutch pinion housing. it has a number of 2-A-3686. Anyone know where I might find this one?
Last edit: 2 years 3 months ago by
rsilva11.
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2 years 3 months ago #240299
by rax200
The seal is a 2A3688 not 2a3686 it is avaliable from cat or any bearing service place will be able to cross references it.
Regards
Daryl
1937 RD4 4G4368
1940 D4 7J3717
1942 D4 7J9915SP
1942 R4 6G2550SP
1944 D4 2T6584SP
1945 D4 2T8978SP
1946 D4 5T6271
1956 D4 7U37855
1954 DH226 S/N 89 Howard Tug
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My D4 7U Challanges
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