I did manage to get the nut off today. However now I am stuck at that collar and still cant get it out of the housing. You say you have some good used clutch disks?

check the pinion clutch latches for wear. if they are worn out or simply out of adjustment the mechanism wont work as it should. what was it doing to prompt removal anyway?
and you might be undoing the wrong end first. not sure ive not had to touch this part on mine.

what is the starter pinion shaft still in the bell housing? as always pictures say a thousand words. there is a tutorial post on posting pics on the discussion main page.

i'll give some free advice sometimes its best if it aint broke dont touch it you can open a can of worms you cant get back in the tin. ive learnt that lesson the hard way with other equipment.
how its supposed to be:
the starter shaft has a clutch and a clutch brake to stop the pinion itself from spinning to allow it to smoothly mesh with the ring gear.
correct operation is push down on the start clutch lever to brake the pinion (it may be spinning with the pilot engine) before lifting the pinion lever(while brake is applied) and meshing it with the ring gear, then the clutch lever is pulled up to engage the starting clutch and turn over the main engine you should feel it lock into place and when the main fires the back inertia should throw the clutch and pinion out. if out of adjustment it wont latch properly and often will throw out early if adjustment doesnt correct it then the latches or dogs are worn and need replacement or repair.

It was slipping too much. I would hve to force pressure on the engage lever for the diesel engine to get enough speed to start. That was not going to last but a couple more starts. Since I am already in deep on the tractor it wouldbe a good time to get that done as well. Its already out. I am having trouble getting the colar in the picture off.
   

You can use a brace punch with hammer on the nut and she should be easy to loosed that nut and removed the rear cover and the lever angagement and with the pinion and sleeve removed just hit the shaft on floor and all the cluch assambly will going out at the other end and if you bearing is no good you can push it out

Ill have to get me a punch and give it a try. Seems to be on pretty tight. I was using an old screwdriver, a hammer, and some heat and it did not budge. I have a couple punches I recovered from the fire but those tools have lost their hardening. Thanks again

I used a spanner wrench to get mine loose.
 

The correct tool for a lock nut like that is a c-spanner or hook spanner. In that situation you can use a hammer on the c-spanner to help move it. Don't be tempted to use cold chisel on it. If you must use a punch use a square punch. The ones you can't get a spanner on are the ones I hate, like the wheel nuts on the 944.Then you either need the genuine tool or you need to get creative and make your own.

I just one question did you try adjusting it before you pulled it apart all the instructions are in the Technical area



regards

You could recheck the lock if all the lock are removed and yes am still have maybe 50 used plate discs 2a3616 and discs 3b5471 and more