Or the drive-in movies! lol

I think the ability to move easily between farms was a huge issue, rubber tracks or tires could move down the paved roads. Another problem we found is the hydraulic systems were not a good match for modern equipment. Fertilizer pumps or air fans need large volume of oil to not overheat and newer cultivators have lift cylinders designed for 3-4000 psi systems. It’s of really nice farm crawler’s struggle just to wing out and then lift something like a 45 foot JD 2210 cultivator. 12 volt electrical systems are the standard for raven control systems and it only takes one time for someone to connect to the wrong battery or an isolated to fail to get your attention. Still playing with steel tracks on my farm though. Used D5 98J, D5 21J, 44A D6B, D6 9U, D4C, TD9, and a TD 35 in the last two weeks putting in my hay barley. Mike

Mswartz-- i have found the 24 to 12 volt resistor used on the military CUCV chevy blazer as a good dependable safe way to power 12 volt equipment on my 24 volt systems. should be able to find them pretty cheap army surplus.

Wow!!! Looks like you could heat the cab with that one.!!!!

i suppose it would get hot if you pushed it hard enough. but just running lightbars and guidance systems etc it never gets warm. could run the A.C. system also. works pretty good to get dependable safe 12 volt power in the cab.

Yes that is how I would do it, more or less. I never got past the D6 9u. I pull 32 foot of the same cultivator very well with a D6. And just 1 12 foot JD box drill with a Allis Chalmers HD 5. My home ground is black adobe which gives sticky muck plugging all tillage equipment, but the pay off is no dust. And the least wear on undercarriage you will get. But only a few miles I can make twice the dust as shows in the video.



For better hydraulics give the BEGE or the Cat hydraulics away  to a collector or just tuck them in a corner of the shed. The plate and u joint on the original Cat drive off the crankshaft is a good starting place. Find a new pump with PSI and GPM ratings you need and mix and match u joint parts to run it. Depending may not win a beauty contest but it works. Put a right sized tank on fender with the valves to match PSI and GPM.

I have rock picker with hydraulic motor that has been fine with a pump in the 15 GPM and 2000+ PSI.  I remodeled a tank, and U joint parts, pump, and  valve was less than $600 from Surplus Center. I wasted way to many years on old BeGe pumps. But that was 5 or 6 year by now. Thinking the u joint parts where not part of the cost as this was the third front drive I had done with all manor of mixing and matching. But all started with a Cat drive plate.

D5 D6 SA hydraulics There is company HCL Manufacturing in Dos Palos CA. They used to build a LivPower system for SA tractors was a high quality Parts and workmanship they are still in business nice people that can solve problems a quality modern hydraulic system!! 17afarmer

i wouldn't mind betting the flange bolt patter for the factory hydraulic pump is a SAE pattern flange and as such you could easily have a adapter made to drive a more modern high pressure hydraulics pump, fluid tank and simply add a standard valve bank to have as many remote circuits as you want and be able to run whatever equipment you want. one issue is the factory rams are not made for over 1500psi and could fail but im sure pressure limiting valves could be included in the circuit for factory rams that are plumbed back to the tank so they relieve to storage instead of open air.