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D7 17A With “Stuck” Engine
D7 17A With “Stuck” Engine
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Posts: 176
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Thank you received: 28
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3 years 3 months ago #230914
by Elton
In the pictures of the exhaust manifold, is that a crack showing in one of the photos? Water can and will get into cracks. If the exhaust valve is open on that cylinder, you likely have water in that cylinder. If the exhaust valve is closed, you could have a stuck valve. Elton
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3 years 3 months ago #230928
by trainzkid88
the clutch cant be locked it is made to release at the first sign of reverse load dont try and do it that way. just rock it back and forwards using a pry bar via the timing inspection cover.
it is easy to remove.
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3 years 3 months ago #230929
by trainzkid88
yep thats a definite crack i wonder why it cracked there find a replacement or vee out the crack and bronze weld it with a oxy torch. here's a tip before welding put it in a oven or bbq and get it nice and warm less likely to re crack and bury it in sand to slow the cooling
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3 years 3 months ago #230958
by RootRakeKid
Thank you everyone for bringing the exhaust manifold crack to my attention. I’ve been wanting to buy a set of torches for some time now. This will give me another excuse to purchase a set.
After talking with the starter rebuild guy it seemed unlikely that the starter clutch could be locked so I am currently not pursing that approach.
I did in fact remove the timing indicator and inspection cover and used a long crow bar to pry the flywheel back and forth. There was some slight movement in the flywheel and a thunking sound coming from the engine. The movement in the flywheel amounted to about a 1/4” to a 1/2”. If one of the pistons was stuck would there still be “backlash” and where specifically would that backlash emanate from? In a previous comment there was mention that a stuck water pump might be the culprit if there was significant backlash present.
The last thing I did was vacuum out all the exhaust ports and sprayed lubricant as best I could on what I assumed was part of the exhaust valve.
I’ll be back at it tomorrow. As usual I look forward to all your comments.
Al
Winn, Maine
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3 years 3 months ago #230962
by gemdozer
Did you check if the hydrolic and master cluch lever are in position angaged it could be the probleme
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3 years 3 months ago #230963
by neil
Yes to all your possibilities - anything driven by the engine could be stuck enabling only the amount of lash you're seeing. A stuck piston could allow allow that much lash depending on where in the stroke the piston is stuck - less at half stroke, more at full stroke (either top or bottom). I'm not familiar with this tractor but if you're able to remove the water pump and the generator, it'll only cost you gaskets and then you can positively confirm it's not them. For the camshaft, if you can see any movement at all in the rockers, that would mean that the camshaft is not seized but there could still be something preventing it turning further. Siimilarly the oil pump.
But if I guessed, I would say a piston since you had detritus in the manifolds, there's every change that there's also some in the cylinder(s) and the rings have stuck. Again, you'd be out gaskets but if you pull the heads, then you could verify positively. I think there's a couple of ways you could start to analyze but I'd start with the engine side covers because they're really easy to remove, then go for the water pump / generator if they're reasonably accessible, then I'd go for the cylinder heads. Everything is just gaskets up to that point.
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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3 years 3 months ago #230967
by RootRakeKid
I didn’t mention that I started to loosen the side panel bolts but coolant water started to leak from within. What I thought was the side panel (see photo) either wasn’t one of the side panels, or that the cooling system needed to be drained before opening the side panel, or that this was an indicator that something is seriously wrong and something is broken.
Does the radiator need to be removed in order to remove the water pump or generator?
Al
Winn, Maine
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3 years 3 months ago #230968
by RootRakeKid
I do believe the clutch control lever was in the right position - moved all the way forward. The transmission was in neutral and the forward /reverse lever was in the middle (neither forward or reverse - neutral).
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3 years 3 months ago #230969
by trainzkid88
it is easier to access the water pump if the rad isn't in the way.
but if you remove the fan shrouds (if fitted) and the fan then you can remove the pump.
if you remove the rad it can be soaked in a cleaning tank to get it as clean as possible with out dismantling it.
if you remove the generator you can use a torch and inspection mirror to see the timing gears youll need a helper to rock the flywheel. if the gears turn and dont look damaged that is probably not the problem
take the side covers off they are low down on the engine dont worry about coolant loss id be changing it any way. remove the rocker covers check the valves and rockers for movement they should all move either freely or when you rock the fly wheel lever on each valve gently to push them down slightly
if after checking all this and not finding a cause the problem is in the cylinders and that means heads off and some degree of a rebuild.
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3 years 3 months ago - 3 years 3 months ago #230970
by trainzkid88
the backlash is from all the little clearances and wear in all the moving parts and is normal to have some.
excessive wear will give excessive backlash this can only be checked when dismantling the engine and is done during a rebuild.
from the amount you mentioned i would say something in the valve/ timing train is seized or a piston is stuck in a bore generally the rings are what sticks and not the piston itself.
the easy way to fix that is remove the heads so you can fill the cyl with diesel
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D7 17A With “Stuck” Engine
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