Plain studs should be just run in to the depth of the taped holes, torquing is not neccessary.
Depending on what you find would determine whether a staged retorquing or just final torquing is required. For final torquing, back off the nuts a quarter to half turn and bring up to full 300 +/- 10 ft- lbs. following the tightening pattern in the Service Manual. If things are way out of whack a redo of the valve lash adjustment/check ahould be done.

Got it will follow.  I will follow up later today with what I found... I knew that needed to be torqued and yes it is to lift the engine not just the head.... Keep you posted....

Do at least a random check of the head studs. Not just the one on the lift eye/s

thanks for the clarification OM, that's my understanding and practice with plain studs....full thread engagement, no torquing required of stud (the torquing of the nut stretches the stud and that is what keeps everything in place, tight)

-rechecking the valve lash, great idea as well !
-seeing as GVH is this far, check everything possible
-fingers crossed

Okay since I am already into this dozer I want a quality rebuild of the d353! Anybody that has done this engine before up to do another? I want the engine rebuilt and also the torque converter... It is probably best for me to sort this out since it is already on the island... Any suggestions?? I would not mind caterpillar doing it as they offer a warranty but I do believe this girl is to old for these mechanics these days... I am sure I could do it with enough time but I really just want it done and with someone that has done this engine rebuild before... Looking for quality not just throwing it back together.... There is a guy on eBay that has the long block rebuilt requiring a core exchange but how do I know if it is quality or not... Again just want the old girl restored to her brilliance... I can't let her go.... Let me know your thoughts Aloha.....George

An engine rebuild is just an engine rebuild. Lots of measuring and replacing parts that don't fit in the measurements. I can't see why cat couldn't handle it. It's not a rotary or hit&miss or anything silly.

We've done the Torque converter/diverter. Tricky unit, i still have no idea how it works, but just a series of bearings and bushes. From memory we needed 3 x lifting eye bolts in most of the UNC sizes, a selection of normal bolts (same sizes) and a set of transfer punches for a lining or something. Torque specs are all in the book. If removing with the trans and engine in place you also need to make a special lifting jig (again in the book) and remove the scavenge pump. You also need to wrap some wire around it to keep the internal gears in it or it can get really expensive really quickly. Same as the uni joint.

Instructions are a bit hard to follow because some of it gets left behind in the flywheel but it's mentioned in the Torque converter/diverter part of the workshop book.

Have a look here www.acmoc.org/bb/discussion-d72/22614-re...-d9g?start=40#202458

 

seems you have your heart set on a new engine..

-agree with Misterskill, an engine rebuild is an engine rebuild, plenty of attention to the details etc...no reason actual Cat mechanics couldn't perform the operation

-i would definitely let Caterpillar handle the job, a real warranty that helps if there's any issues...i'm sure other guys could do it but what happens if events go South?? too big of expense to gamble for me...

-does Caterpillar offer exchange units? that would really speed up the process..

-any ballpark $$numbers$$? okay...i'm sitting down...ready for the sticker shock...

Well, I have been thinking about new engine and torque converter. Seems like anything is going to have to be shipped. The old girls is not worth more than 50k tops is what they are saying. New undercarriage is worth over that installed. I need a new rebuilt d353 with rebuilt torque converter. Anybody on this forum have one that they want to sell that has truly been rebuilt? Let me know your thoughts guys...

Hey!! are you still out there???? How are things going??? We've missed you!!!!!!!!!!!!!

they wont see much value in the old iron. and would rather sell or lease you a modern machine.

but no reason the dealer workshop cant do the work all they need is the relevant workshop manual. mechanicin is mechanicin no big difference if its a car or a locomotive. if it dont slip together like clock work something is wrong.