greengiant wrote:

what about the new pressure relief valve? could it be the culprit?

-thats a great idea too, just because it's new does NOT mean it is 100%     check it if  possible?!
 

Deas wrote:

Hi, gvanhouten.
Sorry about your latest troubles, a real PITA. I'm no mechanic but I would say it would be safe to move it across the street.

Cylinder liner protrusions are very critical on those engines so that all cylinders get the same 'bite' in the head gasket. If you have to remove the front head, I would suggest doing both 'cos it is pretty likely that the same past mechanic did both heads. Also, it is another PITA to take off all the stuff to do one head and put it back on again, only to find that you have to do it all again to fix problems in the other head.

'Sides, if you do them both and one gives problems again in the future, you KNOW who to point the finger at.

LOL.

Just my 0.02.

i  agree with Deas...you can move it but beware you are not in the safe zone...most minimal possible, have a plan where you want it parked to work on it...any last checks you can make while engine running...oil pressure, water temp, xxxx, xxxx etc...
 

and what about the torque convertor case??? excellent suggestion as per Wombat !!

-how does it check out?

Hi, gvanhouten.
I don't have the specs for the cylinder liner protrusion on the D9G, or indeed any of the D9 series or even for any of the D353 engines but, as mentioned earlier, they are pretty critical. Maybe somebody here has them - - - hopefully. If my memory serves me rightly, they are designed to be shimmed to the correct protrusion specs to facilitate sealing with the head gasket.

We have a D9H here on the ranch which needs to have the rear head lifted and inspected. If other projects had not gotten in the way - put there by the boss - I might have been able to give you the specs.

Just my 0.02.

I have the D9G service manual and it states Liner Projection  .004-.006 in.

The specs for tightening the head bolts are as follow: 1.   180 +/- 10 lb.   FT 
                                                                                      2.   300 +/- 10 lb.   FT

And yes I have the sequence of the nuts in the proper order to be torqued down... 

How long should a job like this take I am thinking a couple days.  If I need the head redone ie valves and all then we are looking much longer.  Why I am in there should I just pull the bottom pan and go ahead and do the piston liners and new pistons?  In my mind I am already in there so why not?  One thing off the list.

Interesting is that there became pressure in the head as it lost its seal and air came out through the front main radiator hose.  I am beyond pissed that the pressure relief valve didnt go off.  Any reason for that you guys can come up with?  Like I said brand new temp gauge from CAT not some junk chinese gauge... Yes I will most certainly take both heads off as the intake and exhaust need to come off so why the hell wouldnt I do both and save me the torture down the road... 

Is there any special tools tha you are thinking of that I would need ahead of time?  Thanks all...

kittylover123 wrote:

greengiant wrote:

what about the new pressure relief valve? could it be the culprit?

-thats a great idea too, just because it's new does NOT mean it is 100%     check it if  possible?!

Greengiant sez: (i'm not sure if i put this in the proper slot): I don't know whether the "new" pressure gauge  is for the radiator or cylinders or something else, but i always figure that if something was working ok and then a change was made and it's no longer working, maybe the change may be the problem. And I'm following this thread closely because of my newly acquired D9Gwhich i know nothing about so I'm appreciating all the comments.

 

Radiator pressure relief valves often have passages that get clogged up with rust and crud. Make sure all the passages are clear.
Draining the torque converter housing and finding a lot of oil doesn't define whether the scavenge pump is not keeping up or the torque converter has excessive leakage. You will need to drain the oil from the converter, start the engine and run a torque converter stall test to see what the leakage is. Stall for about a minute and see what the accumulation in the bucket is. Scavenge pump normally handles about 2 gpm so you want to be below that.
If the TC is suspect then run the pressure tests to see what's going on plus check strainer/filter for signs of metal.

Radiator pressure relief valves often have passages that get clogged up with rust and crud. Make sure all the passages are clear.
Draining the torque converter housing and finding a lot of oil doesn't define whether the scavenge pump is not keeping up or the torque converter has excessive leakage. You will need to drain the oil from the converter, start the engine and run a torque converter stall test to see what the leakage is. Stall for about a minute and see what the accumulation in the bucket is. Scavenge pump normally handles about 20 gpm so you want to be well below that.
If the TC is suspect then run the pressure tests to see what's going on plus check strainer/filter for signs of metal.

maybe it's just me but this seems to have escalated rather fast from a dozer that was running well to a dozer than requires a total engine rebuild??

i don't know what GVH's future plans are for the beast, if he plans to clear the rest of Hawaii etc..., well then maybe....

-what would Steve McGarrett do ?   (book 'em Danno!)