Sure don't know how that got posted twice!

Maybe if I paint my computor highway yellow it will work better?

Jack

seems we had pretty nice weather for a couple days and I had to catch up on some ground work around here or incur the wrath of the real boss, but today I'm back in the shop.

Just a couple notes on installing cam shaft bushings. I like to mark the oil hole full length of the bushing with a felt tip pen. That way I know that it hasn't twisted; I can see my marks until the bushing goes out of sight and that's good enough. Pic #1: I push a drill shank in through the oil hole, then put a small steel straight edge up against the drill end and make a mark on the block. The flat straight edge will align perfectly in the boss if it is wide enough to bridge about 90 degrees of the circle.

Pic#2: I use a short piece of angle iron to straight edge the line on the bushing.

Pic #3: I can watch the line to the mark all the way in. The black mark is visible through the white Lubriplate grease. Stop when you're getting close, remove the puller, and put your drop light in the crankcase. You can look in through the oil hole and see how far you have yet to go. The 1" puller bolt has 8 threads/inch. Six flats on the nut moves it 1/8". Three flats = 1/16", etc. You can line up real close.

Pic #4: For the Cat lock plates to work right, they need to be rotated so that they will not travel in a counter-clockwise direction. On the idler shaft plate they need to be set where the tab cannot travel around the corner of the plate. They tend to go with the bolt head on tightening. They can be held with pliers while the cap screw is set to final tightness, then the tab hammered down and one of the others raised around the nut.

Pic #5 Bring the tab up fully along one of the flats of the nut for best results; don't try to catch a corner. It should look something like these.

As you can see, I have also got the inner case with pump/governor attached, which isn't really part of the camshaft bushing job which Iset out to talk about. Unless you want to pull the gear off the cam, this is the way you will have to do it: bushings, then inner case, then cam shaft. So, we're moving along again.

Looks timbo1946 is way out ahead of me, and that's a good thing. More power to him! Get 'er going, t...46. I want to hear it run too!

Jack

Got in a bit of time on the engine today, got the crankshaft in and bolted up. Since I'm puting together a collection of the best of at least three engines, I'm regauging everything as I go to be sure I didn't grab from the wrong pile. If anybody is still watching this, I admit I'm taking an awfully long time to put together a small four-popper engine. I've been on this for at least two years; parts have come in pretty slowly and then I had other jobs to do too. But I'm continuing with the pics until I get the basic engine together, then there's going to be a pause while I work on other aspects of this project such as electrical connection, a new engine room and conversion to electric heating.

Pic #1: I use heater hose to protect the journals and guide the shaft into possition. The shop book shows shop rags wrapped around the studs; I think hose stays in place better, never sneaks in under a journal.

Pic #2: As I said, I didn't feel safe without rechecking everything. All mains cleared 0.006". Rods: 0.0055" (new Cat insert), 0.006", 0.0065", 0.006" rods in order of 1 to 4. Close enough.

Pic #3 and 4: I line up the thrust surfaces by first clamping the crankshaft all the way forward as far as it will go after first preliminary tightening of mains, except #3, about 75% of final torque setting. Then I snug up the nuts on #3 main bearing just a little and edge it toward the flywheel end with gentle tapping through a brass drift. Object is to have both halves of the thrust bearing (#3) firm against the thrust surface on the shaft. Then tighten the bearing down serious like and finish torquing all mains.

Pic #5: Recheck end travel just to see what we've got: 0.011" here. OK.

I ran short of a few small gaskets, so am stopped for the weekend, but I'll be back. Have a good weekend,

Jack

Jack,
Sure looks familiar! Nice job with the pictures, and the process. Great documentation for future reference. I got the rest of the gaskets Friday, only had a few hours today to work. Got the remainder of the rockers and the valve cover in place, along with intake manifold. Will finish the exhaust side sometime during the week. I have help coming on Saturday to re-install engine. I’m getting close, but don’t want to get too excited, many things still to do. Tim

I spent most of the day working on the D2. Had engine all buttoned up this past week. Started at 7:00 am this morning installing engine in tractor. Finished install and toped off all fluids by noon. After bleeding the fuel lines couldn't wait to give it a try. Had to crank over about 10 minutes before she fired up. What a grin both Dad and I had, Dad evened, high fived me. On the down side we have had problems with the pony. Had to pull the carb off and dissassemble. Found lots of crud. We have never had much trouble with it so came as a surprise. We did get back together about 5 pm, and runs better, but still needs some work. She hold 30 lbs oil pressure no matter what the engine speed, even after 40 minutes work of running. Found a few places where small leaks, but we will get them fixed before all the sheet metal goes on. I know it only been 8 months, which is short compared to Jack, but it seams like a lot longer. Thaks to all who have given advice, suggestions, it sure has helped. When I get it all back togther, hope to post some pics. Tim

I'm real happy to hear your rebuild was a success. I'm sure you did a careful and complete job and it will serve you for a long time. It will be like having a new Cat.

Crud in the pony carb is real believable. The gas we get now has crud engineered into it as a standard additive. sitting unused for 8 months could pretty surely cause the crud to settle in. Most of the time I've been unable to clean these little carbs properly without buying a cleaner to soak them in. I've made them run, but not just right. Soak the carb, blow it out and soak it some more, maybe three times. The crud is persistant.

When I crank mine up the generator--a 25 hp electric motor, the mother of all pony motors--will do the cranking at about 1200 rpm. I believe in easy.

I got some more parts yesterday, worked on the engine today. My boy and I got the front cover and pan on, slung it over to right-side-up again. Little sucker's getting heavy once more. I salvaged an SAE bell housing and PTO bearing off a Herculese engine, am planning my adaptor plate to hang it all together. Also designing my motor mounts. I gave up on finding D311 stationary engine mounts.

I'm back. Work is going a little sporadic here, what with all the other stuff that hits this time of year. We had a wild little storm here last night, power went down for a while, internet with it. I suppose the wind blew something across a line.

So progress has been slow, but I have a couple of items to bring up. I recall posts from others enquiring how to locate TDC when installing the flywheel so the timing marks would be correct. On this shaft TDC #1&4 occurs when this mark on the flange is UP, or close enough to set a six-bolt wheel.

A question has not come up that perhaps should have, judging by one engine I tore down. Two bolts in the tappet guide are shouldered to serve as dowels, and go in upper-right and lower-left holes. The other two are cap screws. A careful look at the holes will show the difference. The dowel holes are counter bored down over the thread; the other are threaded from the surface. pic #2&3 shows holes and corresponding bolts.

Last, the question of plugging off the oil cooler lines. This engine came with OEM plugs, but the relief valve was still in place. It worked, but Old Magnet and others have suggested removing the relief valve for easier passage of oil. This is what the relief valve looks like; it drops out when you remove the plate held with two cap screws on the bottom of the filter base.

That's it for now. I'm waiting for reground tappets. I had planned to replace four of them, but the replacments that finally came were from a different engine. They were solid and would take a shorter push rod. So, slowed up a little again, but I'll be back.

Jack