Quick update on my engine assembly. I got the bell housing and pony back on the main engine. Changed over from the rotating engine stand to the hard stand, much more stable now that I don't have to rotate the engine around any more. Installed head two nights ago, but forgot to order the right gaskets to finish up the head. Hope to have them middle of next week. Lots of little things that I can still do, so not dead in the water, could even install back in frame, but is a lot easier to work on it in the engine stand. Hope to have fired up by end of June. Only can work a couple of nights a week, and then only a couple of hours, so progress is slow. Tim

Forgat to ask, book said to set valve clearance to 0.010" hot, what would be a good starting point cold? Tim

Give it not more than .002" more for cold setting on both valves, in. & ex.

I hope you video the startup of this engine rebuild. I think a bunch of us would love to see it!!!

It took a bit for me to get back here. I'm accustomed to my machinery just starting up and running like they have for the past 40 years more or less. The computor geeks just havn't come close to that as of yet.

I got a set of NOS camshaft bearings. They seem to be the last set in existance, and while they are "new", they are pretty rough from careless storage. The lining is intack. I can clean up the shells and get them in so I believe they will be OK. I've had to make do in several places here, but I've managed to stay pretty close to the book specs, so we're going with them.

Today I'm talking about pulling the old cam bearings. New ones will be pulled in with the same tool. It's a simple tool that I made in my shop--just a couple puller plates and a three-foot piece of 1" threaded rod. These pull pretty stiff; I definately recommend the 1" size and lots of lube. Here again, use the Lubriplate or an engine assembly lube.

First pic: the tool. One of the puller plates is a slug that will slide into the bushing bore freely but not loose. It is shouldered to catch the bushing all the way round, but must be sized to slide through the boss in the block. The other is a 3/4" plate turned to a step washer, major diameter small enough to clear studs in the back of the block, minor diameter a slip fit into the block bearing boss. Both are bored for the 1" dia threaded rod. I grind flats on one or both ends of the rod for when the nut disappears into the block and you can't reach it with a socket (pics #2 & 4). Also, when pulling in new bushings, it is a good idea to not let the puller shaft rotate lest it also cause the bushing to rotate and put the oil holes into misalignment.

I pull the bushings in following order, bearing in mind that they may be reused, bad as they are: Pull the center bushing toward the back first just so you won't drop the threaded rod into it when an end bushing lets go. Otherwise, put a piece of radiator hose over the thread.

Pull the front bushing toward the back because it protrudes. Otherwise, you need additional puller tools to space the pulller asssembly out a couple inches in front to clear the bushing as it comes out.

Pull the back bushing last, toward the front. Pic #3 shows the puller in place for the back bushing, washer in position in the front boss. The flats show in this pic.

Last pic: When you are tearing down more than one engine, salvaging parts, selecting the best of the lot, etc. mark the pieces which motor they came from, possition in the motor, front/rear of bushing, everything. It only takes a minute with a felt tip pen and can save you a LOT of head scratching later.

Thanks again for input. I'm betting timbo1946 will have his running befdore mine is. When I get mine together, then starts the fuel system modification for WVO. Then there is the plan to start it from the generator--it will have no starter--and that calls for the connection to the gen and the 3ph connection to the grid. Startup may take a while...

Have a great weekend, all. I'll be back.

Jack

Jack,
You are doing a great job on your project. I think my engine started in a little better shape than your engine so I don’t have as much as you to do. I have been working hard to meet my timeline. I want to get her to the HCEA show in August. Had time this weekend to work on the engine. Installed the water pump and thermostat housing. Pump went on, no problem. The thermostat housing was something different. Had it on and off four times to get all of the bolts to line up in the three sealing surfaces. Final had to resort to opening up the holes on the water passage that goes to the fuel tower. Not sure why I had as much trouble as I did. Couldn’t see why I could get things to line up. Does anyone know why that water passage is there? Could it be there to warm the fuel in cold weather?

The new thermostat flange was thicker than the old one, so had to machine the brass holding flange to get it to fit the housing correctly. It was bent in removal, so machining got both surfaces true again anyway. Finally broke down and spent 4 hours cleaning up shop today. Would have rather been wrenching, but I have been spend more and more time looking for stuff. I also sat and made a list (the final one I hope) of all the things I’ll need to finish her up. Don’t want to get to a point where I’m ready to fire up and don’t have engine oil or something silly like that.

Yes I would like to video the re-start, but I think I’ll wait until I have gotten her going once or twice, not sure I want the world to see my mistakes (hope I don’t have any, but stranger things have happened)

I have question for the experts. I would like to use a common hydraulic fluid as my other equipment. Everything is using John Deere compatible fluid. My D2 has the extra hydraulic lines running behind the seat fuel tank. I would like to put quick couplers there so I can pull my 10 foot disc and 14 foot drag. My main work horses on the farm are John Deere’s and I don’t want to mix fluids when using the implements. I have to replace the fluid in the D2 anyway since I lost about half when I opened up the system. Will I get in trouble using this hydraulic fluid? Thanks Tim

The only question I can come up with on the hole alignment is whether all the alignment dowels are in place on the assessory shaft housing. Otherwise, I'd have to assume that there is a small difference in castings at some serial number in the 5U run that I've never heard of. Same goes for the thermostat.

Are you using JD hy-gard oil in your other hydraulics? It's good stuff. Most of the old, like 1950's hyd systems were made to use 10W motor oil. If this is the case on Cat, the Hy-gard should work fine.

My D2 has a shop-built system with a Gresen pump, so I use a lighter oil in the vane type pump and just change the cylinder on the implement when I use the Cat. I think it 20 sebodt second oil; the JD is 32 seboldt second, or something like that.

IF ANYBODY READING WANTS TO REFER BACK TO THE PICTURES IN THIS THREAD, YOU'D BETTER COPY THEM. I'M RUNNING OUT OF SPACE AND WILL HAVE TO CUT FROM THE START OF THE THREAD REAL SOON. I'd like to leave them up a little longer but that's the way the site works. I know, there's other ways to post pics but I havn't mastered them.

Hope your startup goes well, timbo1946. It's just real satisfying to see a project come to life and work like it's supposed to. After jobs, I've no idea how many, I still get a bit of a rush with a startup.

Jack

The JD are using the Hy-Guard oil, and I'm using a compatable fluid in my other antiques (1946 IH OS6 orchard wheel tractor). I finished installing the flywheel and front pulley today, as well as installing a new main clutch. I RAN OUT OF PARTS TODAY! Have to wait until I get the gaskets this week to finsh the top end, and new fan belt should be he this ween as well. I would like to think that next week end the engine goes back in the frame, will see. Thanks for the comments on the fluid! I haven't look in book, but is there a recommended procedure for bleeding the fuel system. I hope to be at this point soon so again for the more experienced any help here would be appreciated!

At the Cat dealer shop I have bled probably 100s of engines and I always before I installed the new filters was fill the filter tank with clean fuel to near the top and then drop the elements down in. When ready to start open the bleeder screw on the side of the filter base till you get a good flow and close off and then open the one on top the cover that has the wheel on it and do the same till good fuel flow comes and close it off.Now turn the diesel over after opening the each bleeder screw behind each injector pump one at a time till you get a good clean flow out of each one and close them off.You now want to pull the throttle on part way and open each fuel line on top the pumps till you get good air free flow from each one and then it should be ready to start.On late engines with the screw on elements fill them too with clean fuel before you screw them on and proceed to bleed the system the same way except they don,t have the one screw on the side of the housing but just the one with the wheel and the rest from there is the same. Always wash the filter housing like the D2 has good before you fill it and install the new elements.

The only question I can come up with on the hole alignment is whether all the alignment dowels are in place on the assessory shaft housing. Otherwise, I'd have to assume that there is a small difference in castings at some serial number in the 5U run that I've never heard of. Same goes for the thermostat.

Are you using JD hy-gard oil in your other hydraulics? It's good stuff. Most of the old, like 1950's hyd systems were made to use 10W motor oil. If this is the case on Cat, the Hy-gard should work fine.

My D2 has a shop-built system with a Gresen pump, so I use a lighter oil in the vane type pump and just change the cylinder on the implement when I use the Cat. I think it 20 sebodt second oil; the JD is 32 seboldt second, or something like that.

IF ANYBODY READING WANTS TO REFER BACK TO THE PICTURES IN THIS THREAD, YOU'D BETTER COPY THEM. I'M RUNNING OUT OF SPACE AND WILL HAVE TO CUT FROM THE START OF THE THREAD REAL SOON. I'd like to leave them up a little longer but that's the way the site works. I know, there's other ways to post pics but I havn't mastered them.

Hope your startup goes well, timbo1946. It's just real satisfying to see a project come to life and work like it's supposed to. After jobs, I've no idea how many, I still get a bit of a rush with a startup.

Jack