1953 build date

You now may have a new problem, I was told to always mix the anti freeze with the water before you pour it in the engine. Right now the antifreeze is in the lower part of the block and the water is in the head, if the engine had started no problem. But with out the water pump mixing it all up it could freeze and brake this winter. I would plan to drain the water if you cant make it run. It will not hurt a engine to start it up with out water for a short time if you disable the water pump belt first....WA7OPY

Good guess on the cooling system capacity, it is 18 gallons.

"WA7OPY" wrote:

You now may have a new problem, I was told to always mix the anti freeze with the water before you pour it in the engine. Right now the antifreeze is in the lower part of the block and the water is in the head, if the engine had started no problem. But with out the water pump mixing it all up it could freeze and brake this winter. I would plan to drain the water if you cant make it run. It will not hurt a engine to start it up with out water for a short time if you disable the water pump belt first....WA7OPY

Yes. The coolant concentration will have to be corrected before winter or drained. I only had 6 gallons of premix 50/50 coolant with me. When that didn’t fill it, I added water until full. So it has a very weak solution in it. My plan is to drain and flush the entire system after getting the engine running, and service with new coolant.

If for some reason I don’t buy the dozer, or don’t get it running before winter, I’ll correct the weak concentration it has now.

Did you try to turn the engine over in low gear with the pony?

"Rome wrote:

Did you try to turn the engine over in low gear with the pony?

Yes. I also verified the main clutch is free, transmission is in neutral, and compression release to start.

"WA7OPY" wrote:

You now may have a new problem, I was told to always mix the anti freeze with the water before you pour it in the engine. Right now the antifreeze is in the lower part of the block and the water is in the head, if the engine had started no problem. But with out the water pump mixing it all up it could freeze and brake this winter. I would plan to drain the water if you cant make it run. It will not hurt a engine to start it up with out water for a short time if you disable the water pump belt first....WA7OPY

These machines have a gear driven water pump.
I have encountered your problem several times . Pressurising the offending cylinder with hydraulic oil from another tractor has proved to me to be the most successful way to free a stuck engine. If the cylinder is badly stuck dismantling and removing cylinder and sleeve together may be the only option. The stuck cylinder will be the one with the exhaust valve open.

With engines with a gear drive pump you need to lub the seal in the pump, you can add water until the seal is flooded or remove a plug and wet the seal that way. It is a must to wet the the seal or you will have a water pump to rebuild. I like to know the engine will run before I add the antifreeze.....WA7OPY

"WA7OPY" wrote:

With engines with a gear drive pump you need to lub the seal in the pump, you can add water until the seal is flooded or remove a plug and wet the seal that way. It is a must to wet the the seal or you will have a water pump to rebuild. I like to know the engine will run before I add the antifreeze.....WA7OPY

You are on the wrong track there. These engines have a gland type water pump seal using rope type packing. The packing nut has a left hand thread ..

"Andrew" wrote:

Yeah pouring oil down the exhaust won't do any real harm and will stop any further deterioration.

Won't help if there is water in the cylinder. Oil floats on top of the water so it won't get to where it needs to be but you are right it won't do any harm.

Before you try anything you should find out why it is "stuck". Is it just from sitting around, from getting water in through the intake or exhaust manifold, water from a cracked head, seized from lack of oil or overheating. I know you said the seller stated it was going when it was parked there but was it going well? Do you know the history of the machine or are you relying on the seller when you said "The D7 sat for 7 years and was a good running machine prior". If there are no leaks in the coolant system and it was low then a cracked head is a possibility. My next project is to free up a D8 that had a cracked head and was parked without draining the coolant and now one cylinder is full of water.

If there is water in the cylinder and it has been there for any length of time then pitting of the cylinder is a possibility. I have recently pulled 2 D6 4R/5R's apart as both were seized due to water ingress. Some cylinders were full of water while others had leaked the water into the sump. The cylinders with no water had damage above and below the piston. All pistons had rings stuck in the grooves. All cylinders had a lot of rust and crud above the piston that if not removed could cause damage to the piston rings.
One telltale sign of water ingress is oil in the sump that may show on the dipstick but will definitely show if you drain some of the sump oil. The first thing I would do is remove both manifolds and see if there is any water or evidence of water ie rust in the inlet and exhaust ports. If they are clean and there is no evidence of water in the sump then I would continue as you were with pulling the injectors out. If you can't see any water in the cylinders then I would fill it with something like "loose juice, maybe 50/50 ATF and diesel fuel" as suggested and let it sit for a week or two.

Regards

Phil