D2Vermont, the first picture is of a tool bar dozer. Please don't cut or modify that blade becuase they are somewhat rare. I am sure that someone has a 2s blade to trade. The blade in the second picture is a 2a c-frame. That blade is easily switched with a 2s blade.
Chuck C

It's been a long week. We made some good progress on the D2. Of coarse we didn't get as far as we had hoped (as my grandfather used to say if it was easy every one would be doing it).

We spent most of the week working on the track frames. The track role bolts came out very hard even with heating them with a torch we snapped a bunch of them off. The roles themselves were completely shot (You can see one of them on the left hand of the first picture). I ended up taking apart about thirty roles before I got all of the parts I need to make ten. The thing that I am the shortest on is the belows seals. As you can see in the picture I had one of the rubber seals come loose during the parts washing. I was wondering if there is something that I can glue it back on with? I hate to start puling roles of off machines that are still all together to get one more part.

The other mane excitement of the week is the fenders. The fenders that came with the machine are of 3/8 steal but they were only about thirty inches long because the bucket loader frame cut them off. I did have two full length 3/8 steal fenders but they were both left hand fenders and they were from machines that were 6" shorter than this one. So it has been another of those cut and paste operations.

We have two more days before my father goes home so we will see what we can get done.

Isn,t that the flat seal off the end of the bellows assem. you pictured there? They hold the grease inside the rollers & usually were always a leather type material. Cat # 5H2471 is the cement made for that job & almost anything you need to glue fast like gaskets & those seals.That is a contact glue (cement) so you coat each surface with it & let dry for a few minutes or less & then press the two together but make sure when you put them together they are lined up as it,s almost impossible to move the seal around after it touches the other glued surface.

The new urethane glues that are a moisture cure seem to be a good readily available flexable. I have used them to glue some rubber things to steel surfaces. they are not instant bonding, and require clamping and cure time.

I have a bottle of elmers and I believe other brands have the same thing.

best one I have ever used was Pliabond brand, not sure what type that was, but it was sold to bond the gaskets onto plate heat exchanger plates. these things CIP with ~200 degree water and caustic/chlorinated cleaners. that glue lasts for many many years.

I might end up rebuilding my steering clutches on my 5J. What are brass steering clutches?
Thanks!

Possibly what you have in mind is the Velvet Touch type metallic surfaces that Cat has used for years on some disc surfaces rather than the fiber material.

Not really brass....but "sintered bronze" a powdered metal application to a steel plate that takes the place of the old asbestos/paper friction discs. Provides a far superior friction surface without the attachment and sticking problems of the old style plates. Being a thinner construction it usually will require a few more plates to match the earlier thickness clutch pack.

Yes OM that is what is called the Velvet Touch metallic material on the discs but don,t know where the name came from.

The semi metallic linings are the same as used on the Cat 933 11A..... I bought mine from General Gear, also known as steeringclutch.com because they are thinner than the original ones as used on the D-2, it requires 12 lined discs and 12 steels per side. new inner and outer springs are avaible as well in case you have ruin yours as I did in order to get the swollen clutch packs apart.

The semi metallic linings are said to be more resisant to absorbing mositure and swelling up than the original style. Good Luck.