well ownership has been transferred Now to get that darn pony started up.

On a side note...it is no longer possible to buy solid ignition wire locally on a roll anymore... Gonna have to scrounge in the shop, think I have a set for a Packard 8 that has been cannibilized for its four shortest for an AC C.

Pictures forthcoming...

Hello Raven. I have a 1937 RD4 (s/n 4g4344) that I bought last April from a rancher in west Texas. It has a cracked block that has been "all-metal" repaired. The radiator lower tank was busted (rancher did not drain the water out and it came a freeze and busted the lower radiator tank, cracked the pony motor #1 cylinder water jacket and cracked the engine block on the left side just forward of the drain plug). I've repaired the lower radiator tank (welded) and I'am now in the process of having the pony motor welded so I can get it running and then try to get the main engine running.(got my fingers crossed) "If" I can't, I'am toying with "idea" of installing a Cummings 5.9 turbo diesel. Can you post some pictures of your D6 with the Chevy 292 gas engine especially the engie mounts. It sure sounds like that was a project to convert and I'am interested in it. I'am kinda like you only my rig is 500 miles from me, fourteen miles off the main road, no building to put it in.I had to make a special "A" frame and a set of tracks for the "A' frame to roll in so as I remove the heavy parts I can back my truck up to the dozer and load them to bring home. I have to make every trip count to try to get it running. I'am hoping to get the 4 cyl diesel running but it's a gamble at this point. If you can I'd like to see some pictures of that conversion. Good luck on your project I hope your luck is better than mine.

Rabbit2
might need to start a different topic rather than hijack this one.

Have you considered the 3.9 Cummins.
Lower horsepower but still WAY WAY more than the RD4 orginally had.

Repowering is one thing but overpowering can get real bad. You WILL find the next weakest link... Probably take all the teeth off the clutch disc real quick. Then split tractor and try again.

Remember engineers do overdesign but not generally by orders of magnitude.

Asian engineers do not overdesign. IF it was designed for 20hp do not put 21 on it.

Just my thoughts.
Cheers
Dudley

DCurrin/ Mr Dudley, If I have done somethang wrong I do humble apologiize.I assure you and everyone else that I had no intention of "Hijacking" RAVEN listing. I mearly thought that sence he had wrote in the last paragraph of his first posting that "his family had installed a chevy 292 in a D6 dozer" that it would be "OK" to ask him for some more info/pictures. I'am new to "ACMOC" and will admit that I have a lot to learn and look forward to learning every thang that I can from this vast pool of knowledge. I learn somethang new every time I read a new posting. I think everyone who has been so very helpful in helping me with every thang so far and look forward to learning more about these fantasist machines.

To answer your question sir. I have though about a Cummings 3.9 but was not sure if that would be a big enough engine. I'am really hoping that I can get my orginal motor going but was just looking at all my options because one way or the other this RD4 will breath/live to work another day.

Again if I have done somethang wrong I apologize, it was not my intention.

I was gonna respond to the same effect concerning repower. Not overpowering is a big thing. If you have twice as much power and you ctch the blade on something imobile then either the main clutch or steering clutches are gonna go away at the least. The big old diesel would let you know by lugging down and giving you time to correct things before you had a chance to break it (usuaully..).

I really wish I had the original engine for our dozer. But my father wants to keep it as-is because my grandfather did it. I will try to get pictures soon, its aways back in the woods on my Uncle's property in another county

On a grader note, the mag looks really nice inside on my pony. Maybe I can get the pony started this weekend. Are the threads on the fuel supply and return lines a standard thread? Asking for both pony and the main's injection pump. I had read about some Cats using strange threads on tubing fittings...


My plan is for new fuel filters on the main and use a temporary tank with fresh clean diesel until I can inspect/clean the main tank.

I'm not aware of any return fuel lines.
The pony fuel supply lines are a mix of standard pipe thread fittings and Cats own large ferrule nuts and ferrules. Their system maintains full inside tube diameter unlike the common hardware compression fittings.

The main fuel line fittings are an oddball 7/8 dia. 14 tpi straight thread with 45 degree ferrules.

cool, I just assumed the injection pump had some sort of return to the tank.

I am gonna try to give it a go this weekend. Armed with a chainsaw, the toolbox, new start belt, battery, new plugs and wires for the pony, plastic temporary fuel tank for the pony, oil, filters, water, and a partridge in a pear tree (just in case).

I would add some carburetor cleaner and sandpaper or points file to my list of necessities unless this is just a first run hoping for luck and expecting to remove carb and mag if they won't perform.

No return line, but I found and (others told me, but I didn't believe it at first)that instead of returning filtered fuel to the inlet of the pump/line from the tank to control the pressure, instead the bypass valve returns dirty fuel (if your fuel is dirty) to the inlet of the pump so it recirculates any debris through the pump until your pump is shot. So, it pays to have a clean tank and also to look up the thread where OldMagnet shows how to put an inline strainer ahead of the transfer pump.

Good luck!

expecting to remove the carb if it fails to perform, points file is SOP in the box

Will look up that thread. I am thinking that a clean plastic fuel tank with a strainer will be a very good idea. I am fully expecting the pump to require TLC before it fires up. I will be happy to get it rolling over with oil pressure and no massive water leaks. Inspection of block reveals no apparent cracks, and the radiator has an antifreeze smell to it so maybe I am good on that front.