Hi all looking at my first acquisition of a Cat. A 212 (im pretty sure..its pretty beat up and i dont have the serial number yet) grader with a Roanoke articulated mower on it. Its been sitting for a very long time. But the exhaust was cover with a steel can which hasnt rotted through, the air filter is still in place and neither pony nor main crankcase appear to have any water in them. Nor is there the telltale sign of rust above the oil on the dipstick that might indicate condensation damage. Pulled the plugs out of the pony, both were dark with no rust, like it was shut down yesterday, might look in there with a borescope this weekend.


What is a generic part number for the pony start belt and the governor drive belt on a 212 grader with a 6 cylinder main? Its a bit of a pain to try to accurately measure the belt with everything so close to the cab. Also is there a nut on the end of the pony crankshaft i might could put a ratchet on to see if its free. I have very little hope of turning the main by hand because there is just no good way to get to anything that i can see. I guess I could pull the hydraulic pump off the back of it (it has this hydraulic pump hung out the back for the mower) and try to turn it through the coupling.

I have read a couple of places on starting procedure. I have two levers on the right side of the machine. A big aluminum one that points straight up and another cast iron one thats at an angle. My intuition is the big aluminum one is the engagement for the pony motor. Which way is disengaged? I am unsure what the other one is.

If I can aquire this machine, my plan is to get the pony started, then see if the main will turn over (after pulling injectors and putting some pentrating oil in each cylinder). Do i run a risk of breaking something if the main is stuck when i engage the pony or will it pretty much just kill the engine?

I may end up pulling the pony and taking it back to the shop to get it running, the machine is in the edge of a field and its tought to get out there after work before the sun goes down let alone find time to fiddle with the pony engine.

Thanks,
Eli

My family actually has a D6 which back in the 70s broke the crankshaft. The original engine was pulled and a 292 chevy gas burner was transplanted. The 292 spins a truck transmission which then spins the cat transmission. it was run at probably 3000 rpm with a 3:1 ish (2nd or third cant remember) through the truck trans. I never saw it run but my father said you put both trans in low and release the clutch and itd creep along barely moving and pull anything up until the loss of traction. the 292 weighed far less than the diesel

Hello raven,
Need to sort out that model number first:D
The #12 series is a six-cylinder engine
The #112 series is a 4-cylinder engine, same as the D4.
The #212 series is a 4-cylinder engine, sames as the D2.

You might consider buying a universal belt that can be taken apart. Most industrial parts outfilts like W. W. Grainger have them and you can assemble your own belt. It is much easier to feed the belt through and then put it together than to have to disasemble the dash. I did this on my old Cat 70D grader and it worked well. The long lever you speak of controls the starting engine clutch and the short one is the pinion lever. With the pony motor running, you pull the long lever in the direction of the front of the grader while lifting the pinion lever- when the pionion is engaged -you then push the long lever to the rear past center and the big engine should turn over. You also should have a compression release control to set, a fuel petcock to open for gasoline to the pony motor and other fun things to learn about on old Cats. Please don't try to start the big engine until you understand the safety issues about disconecting the pony motor when the diesel starts. Good luck

It,s so easy to check a belt length if it,s off by putting a chalk mark on the inside surface of the belt and lay it down on a flat surface, floor or whatever and put another chalk mark on the floor in line with the belt mark & roll it out flat on the floor till the belt mark comes down & mark the floor there And then mearure between the two marks on the floor and that gives you the length. You can just measure the outside width of the belt with a rule & take the sizes and the belt to your supplier as they will match a new one up for you. They usually have a measuring tool even to get the sizes you need if you don,t want to measure it yourself.We had one at the Cat dealer I worked for.

Old Magnet is right. A 212 does not have a 6 cylinder engine. A Cat 12 does. You need to find out what the serial number is to find out what you have. catskinner

yup im guessing its most likely a 12. It rained all through Christmas, plus it was Christmas so I didnt get to look at the serial. I also didnt bring a flashlight and it was almost dark. I did turn the pony by hand though. You have to really fold yourself up to get in there. Being able to turn the pony is encouraging. I may just try to rope start it.

www.durabelt.com/beltlengthcalculator.php

I did find that. I dont really have enough belt to use the floor method. :-\

Eli

D69U uses 8F2434 belt (cat part number) I can get a NAPA or GATES number off one of our tractors.

many of the #12 graders should be the same with D318 engine.

I would pull the whole machine to the shop instead of hauling the pony motor. It's a lot more convenient to work on it installed, with oil and coolant in it. Not necessarily easier to do the repair, but a lot less work removing, hauling and replacing.

Since the magneto faces backward on the grader (toward the radiator), you can get to it easily, unlike the 212 and 112 with the pony engine where the mag is facing the back of the cab. Ours has an oversize cab that cuts down on the clearance even more.

The only thing I would remove the motor for is an overhaul, but that's just me.

Well, i have kinda ditched pulling the pony now that I can turn it over by hand. Really no reason to if it turns over. A gates number would be awesome. I cant see the flywheel face to know which way to wind the rope and you really have to climb in there to get the rope on it. I could see where if it was ornery it would get old in a hurry to rewind the rope over and over. I will probably pull the mag and carb and fuel tank for cleaning and inspection.

A part number for the governor/water pump drive belt would be good as well.

Thanks for your help,
Eli

TR22485 starter drive belt (this is a notched belt which is easier to get on the starter drive pulley) A standard V belt can be hard to get on without removing the small pulley. Some V belts have less depth so they go on easier and the notches help too.

The 4B2544 waterpump/governor belt crosses to a 9425

Gates belt cross reference utility-
www.gatespowerpro.com/Comergent/en/US/ad...215&CFTOKEN=44214589

the starting motor cord winds clockwise as you face the pulley (if you could face the pulley) so it turns the flywheel clockwise as you pull.

I was just looking at the cross reference when i returned from lunch!

I may try to pull the pony through a couple of times to make sure everything seems okay before putting the juice to the electric.

Thanks,
Eli