You are right Gemdozer they don,t use a seal in the rear & that,s what the screw threads are for on the crank on the rear journal is to screw the oil back in the pan & that,s when it will leak when the bearng surface where the screw threads touch it & wears it giving too much clearance there. Sometimes if the crank isn,t worn much a new bearing can correct oil leaking by it.

I think most all of my oil was coming from Pony motor pulled the seal on it a little bit ago and it had a bad spot in the seal at the botom my brother said he thought the pony motor was useing some oil he had not seen it leaking the fly wheel had it covered up perty good.
I don't think the dozer engine has been using much of any oil.
Russell

Got seal for the pony ordered looks like it's going to be about $900.00 total for all parts including 5 links, 2 link shakels and plate assembly, 12 clutch segments and rivets, clutch brake plate and rivets, locking washers for bolts, and seal for pony motor.
I think the bearings seam to be ok roll smooth, but wounder if I should change anyway?
Russell

Also check your pony motor crankshaft for sealing surface condition. If it's badly grooved (and most are) you may want to repair with a speedy sleeve otherwise the new seal won't last long.
Your call on the bearings, but now is the time to change them if you think it is warranted.

The crank on the pony may have been replaced before my brother got it the guy started up pony and let it run to warm up and went inside came back out when heard motor stop, motor locked up due to gas in oil so he had it completly rebuilt before we got it shaft looks like new. The seal looks like it may have been damaged when it was put in, my brother said it always seemed to use oil sence he got it thought rings didn't seat in but now looks like just bad seal. They may have cut it on keyway?

Got the clutch segmets put on last night 84 rivets sure glad I got the old rivet press the rivets on the clutch brake were solid rivets so had to use old hand rivet punch I had, job looks like factory so should work. I did go ahead and get a new throw out bearing figued I would be kicking myself if I had to pull it all back apart in a year or so just because I didn't want to spend $68.00 more and do it right the first time.
Not goin to get much done on the old D6 this weekend I have to deliver 300 big bales of Brome so will be in semi all weekend. Hate to think about having to fill up both 100+ fuel tanks thats going to hurt:(
Russell

Got to work on clutch a little last night but found another problem the links that pivot and push the clutch forward , the way they are made looks like they are suposed to give some so the clutch snaps into place . The previous owner evidently got the bright idea to weld where they bend and come close together so this explains why clutch snap over didn't seem to feel right. Cat can still get these bent metal (probably spring steel) links $30.00 each X 6 part# 7B2147 so waiting on parts again.
Russell

You are right on changing back to the original links. Hate it when "monkeys" go to work on these tractors. No telling what else they screwed up:rolleyes: