D4DAVID,
That’s a nice looking old tractor, not many left. With your sn 4G 2196 it should be a 1936. RD4’s, 4G’s with Sn 1 through 3662 were 1936. Why its labeled as a D4 would, or could be anyone’s guess….my money is on a 1936 because of the low sn.

As for the shiny marks on the sprocket I would check it for being loose. Stick a bar in the track fame and push back and forth against sprocket, and any movement of the sprocket will indicate it being loose, and it should be tightened up. If is it not loose than do as Tom has suggested, having someone watch while working it. There is more than one thing that could be the trouble.

Yes the dozer is without a doubt a Le Tourneau not hard to tell, having the hand crank for the tilt. The Hyd’s are shop/home made and that’s not hard to tell either . Old R.G. LeT. was not fan of any Hyd. systems.
Kelly

The two oil cups in front of the seat are for oiling the steering clutch release bearings. The one up between the steering clutch levers is for oiling the main clutch release collar......all take same as engine oil.....keep them well lubed.

The shiny spots on the sides of the sprocket teeth indicate there is an alignment problem between the sprocket and the track truck/s.....adjust shims in rear hub to get sprocket aligned in the center of the last roller.....or the sprocket is loose as suggested.

Undercarriage is a general term referring to wear conditions of the tracks, rollers, sprockets, idlers, etc. and can be confused by whether the description is % worn or % left with the common term being % worn.

For the D4 see the attached info for checking pin/bushing wear.

thanks all, will check that sprocket on monday,lube those cups up allso,and try and find a grease nipple to fit those zerks.. i am use to old fords i have a small farm in the california foothills.and i mean hills...when i bought my first 8n they said "hope you dont have any hills" but i have gotten use to no brakes and sliding around..my neighbors have allways made fun of me .They ask"hey dave how many passes does it take to push a pine cone out of the road" wait till the see this old rd4 coming down the mountain,that oughta shut those kubota freeks up... talk next week...dave

It looks like you like 8N's! As far as your Cat being badged as a D4, it's possible that it's had the radiator assembly replaced, this one being from a
D4.

Before you get to greasing rollers, spend some time learning about the roller lube. It's a very light grease (00 weight) and supplied through a high volume pump with a relief valve. The pumps go for pretty good money, but are available used on ebay or here on ACMOC sometimes. If you get a button head coupler for your hand grease gun, you should be able to get tube grease or bulk load your gun and CAREFULLY grease until some resistance is felt so you don't blow out the rollers' seals. Some of the couplers had a relief in the coupler, but the last ones I have seen from industrial supply stores, didn't, so with a hand gun, you could easily blow the seals out.

Also a good idea to drain all the compartments that are supposed to be dry (main clutch and steering clutches). Even if they don't still have plugs in the drains, clean out the acumulated material that sometimes dams up around the holes. The steering clutch compartments can be washed with diesel or kerosene by filling up until it covers the lower part of the brake drum and then driving back and forth without pulling a steering clutch lever to splash the diesel around and then drain. I don't know that the main clutch would ever need washing, but if it did, the owners manual for the 212 grader we have recommends flushing out the clutch compartment without getting the washing fluid on the clutch itself. There will be quite a bit of oil accumulating in each of these compartments from seal seepage and the oil you put in the cups.

The oil filled compartments (trans/bevel gear case, and final drives)can be checked for water and metal by just loosening the plug first to allow any water to drain and then catching a small amount of lube to check for metal and then replace the plug if the lube is good. Once you get running and get it all warmed up, then it would be a good idea to completely drain, wash with diesel, drain and refill with good gear oil.

thanx cc. i will take it slow,and cautious when lubing, thanx for the info...d

Hey guys checking shiny wear marks on this ole cat.sprocket does not seem loose in any way.tried with a prybay on both sides.does not seem to be making contact with anything?had someone look as i drove on flat ground.i do drive on uneven dirt,and up a good incline,maybe this slaps the sprocket around a little.also noticed some new scratches around the pin area.any thoughts?plus what kind of a hyd valve do i have .for sure says minneapolis on the bottom.cant make out the top either greely or greenly or greesly.does this unit have a up/down an float position? or is it just shot.read a thread from ol magnet that discribed the charecteristics of rd4 blades. seems pretty right on.i have to get rid of my bus seat,it seems to throw me into the blade hydralic actuator.. my buddy came over and said i was improving in my driving skills. thought the first time for sure i was gonna die..today a little better...

Float is when you are pushing the blade down and it's hopefully raising the front of the tracks off the ground and if you keep pushing the control forward, the tracks fall back to the ground and the machine quits working to raise or lower.

Most of them have a detent you can feel as you go past it into float to keep you from dropping in there by mistake.

The valve brand you are trying to identify is probably "Gresen". They are still around as a manufacturer but not as common as they once were.

The marks you mention on the pin bosses are probably from the track roller flanges. Track rollers are worn where the rail runs on them and the rails are worn shorter too so eventually the roller flanges can come in contact with the pin bosses. Those have been running that way for a while and have cut into the pin bosses pretty severely. This eventually will cause pins to loosen and work out as the tracks are run to destruction.

This wear point is one of the things that is taken into consideration for the 100% worn rail height specification that is published for each link part number. Another is the depth of the hardening in the links. Once the hard layer is gone, the rest doesn't last long under regular use. Maybe for hobby machine it would be ok.

Short of new rails, building up (welding) on the bottom of the links to restore the height to spec and or building up the diameter of the track rollers would be the best or just torching the roller flanges down so they don't hit the pin bosses will allow you to keep running those tracks.

I expect the marks on the sprocket teeth are from severely worn pins and bushings in the rails allowing even a normally tensioned track to "snake" around some when turning and rub on the sides where it normally wouldn't. It's also possible the track frame needs centering on the sprocket if the marks are always on one side of the sprocket and not on the other.