can anyone explain how to get at the nut to tighten the final drive bearings on my D6 9U? I don't have any of the guards or covers. What has to be removed so I can get at the nut with the spanner wrench (or large punch and sledge)? Thanks.

The lock mechanism! Ha!Ha!..actually you don't remove it,just loosen and pivot it out of the way.

Even without the outer shields, there is usually still a cylindrical shield covering the nut just inside the track frame bearing. remove a few 3/8" bolts and it will come right off.

It's harder to get to the adjustment with the tracks on, especially with the punch method.

remember, counterclockwise to tighten.

Joel, the hammer and punch isn't so great for tightening adjustment. Try to get over the track frame with a crowbar and pry on the lugs of the adjusting nut. Tighten as hard as you can with all your weight on bar.
Later Bob

Thanks guys, gonna give it a try this weekend. Don't have the actual spanner wrench yet - I'm going to see what I can do (if anything) with the hammer and punch method. thanks..

Joel,

As Bob said, I doubt that a hammer & punch, air hammer etc is going to move it. Like he mentioned, I used a crowbar against the trackframe, had about 10 ft of cheater pipe on it and still it just barely broke loose. Be careful, lots of leverage with something like that and things can break and fly and things can hurt.....

dd

Dirt Dog,

I'm sure you're right. I am just wishfully thinking. I really don't want to have to shell out 100 bucks for the spanner wrench. I'm sure they need attention though, and it's a real bummer when I brought home a 60 dollar, five gallon pale of gear lube and you see it start running on the ground:mad:

It seems to stop leaking after it is down about a gallon. I know each side holds about 3 1/2 gallons. Am I going to chew something up if I run it when it's down that low? Thanks.

It's not just about low oil level....if it's due to loose adjustment you do run the risk of tearing something up like pinion/bull gear teeth or sprocket hub splines. If adjustment is good and it's just that the seals are shot then oil level/lubrication is the only issue.

I know what your saying about the gear oil Besides my finals leaking, I have a seal leaking it out of the ring/pinion into the steering gear housing, so its running out on the ground there on mine also!

OM is right on. If you have loose bearings your final gears aren't lined up like they need to be and it can do some damage.

So far as the spanner wriench, I borrowed one from my Catskinner buddy, and it don't work very good on the bearing nut with the tracks on. I did use it a little at an angle, but a big crowbar and cheater is what you need. BTW, if you get into it, the nut holding the sprocket on is also a spanner nut, just not as big as the bearing adjusting nut. The sprocket nut is only about 4" or so...

Did you ever find the drain plugs on the finals? If so, you might want to take a close look at the oil for metal.

Also, did you pry on the sprocket to see if it will move?

Good luck with it and ask away! These boards are the greatest knowledge source on these ole machines you will find.

dd

I really appreciate all the help on this guys. I didn't get a chance to do anything on it last night. This weekend I will do the pry test and see what happens. Still have to look again for the missing drain plugs!

hey I got a chance to work on tightening those bearings. Had both sides done in about an hour and a half. Each side turned quite easily with the crow bar/cheater pipe method. I got at least a full turn of the spanner nut on each side. Maybe a little bit more. Thanks for all your help guys. I hope they don't leak as bad now. I'm sure (with my luck) they'll still leak some, but hopefully this helps slow it down some. I don't want to top up the lube until I'm ready to use it again in case it still leaks.