I just picked up 2 of these machines.Both are 5u's, and they both have blades and electric start for the pony motors.My question is on the one the end of the starter pinon towards the back drop off into the flywheel housing,what would cause this and can i fish it out through the inspection plate for the clutch.thanks.

here's a link to a diagram of a pinion assembly. Should be the same as yours, just different parts numbers most likely.

img413.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ponybendixmedcb6.jpg

The end of the pinion assembly is a separate piece, so maybe it could fall off into the clutch housing. It should be held in place by 4 bolts and the engagement finger that pushes the pinion gear into mesh with the flywheel ring gear. You will have to pull the assembly to repair it anyway, so you might as well do that first and then fish for whatever is missing. Hope there's room for it down in there somewhere so it isn't ground up into little bits.

It is not uncommon to have the sleeve attachment bolts get loose or shear off and bugger up the sleeve requiring replacement. That's a pretty big chunk to make its way to the bottom of the bell housing and would have to get by the engagement lever in the process. Pull the cover and go fishing;) Also the bell housing drain plug.

CCJersey's right, the end of the starter pinion assembly is held by the bolts and retainer washers. If its been started with that assembly, you probably have a heck of a mess in there as its the size of a grenade and made of expen$$$ive cast iron holding your latch assembly together. I spot tack the bolts to the cast with nickel rod to avoid this situation, as the threads are about 3 to 4 per bolt. Yes, you can fish around through the inspection cover if you remove the pinion assembly ( you probably can squirt it past the throttle governor housing as its now missing the last 6 or so inches of it), and disconnect the shift interlock mechanism from the throw out assembly, unbolt and roll it up out of the way. Its now a contortionist's dream, but if you lay on your belly on the left side fender, you can dip away! Mirror to reflect light into the hole works way better than a flashlight when coming up for air and a re-assessment of fishing blind for shrapnel bits! Good luck!

How Do I Tensin The Throw Out Spring Tension Requirement??my Machine Dont Have A Purpose Hole In Bell Housing

Some times you can remove the clutch inspection cover in the center of the clutch housing & reach them but can,t just remember if you can on the D2s but give it a try.There is a screw in each latch there to turn & are held in place with cotter pins after they are adjusted.Adjust both the same turns when you turn them & with good or new latches they need to be flush with the latch to start with & the pin holes lined up so you can get the cotter pins in.

Thanks for the help guys,went fishing today and caught the end piece.Had my hand all the way to the bottom of the clutch and no luck on finding the gear.As I was trying to get my arm out without having to leave my hand in there,I looked at the toolbox on the fender and throught no way could it be in there.Well it was my lucky day under all the crap the fellow before me left behind I found my part.Will be putting it all back togather,will try and post some pictures.The other tractor is suppose to run also,but needs to be pulled,missing gastank and carb for pony.This one also doesn't steer,will be soaking them in fuel.Thanks again.

Hi hicrop10,
the good book says that one clockwise turn of the latch spring adjusting screw will increase the release speed by 100- 150 rpm. Usually start with screws about level with pinion housing face for new parts, or where they are set to already for used unit. Good news finding parts in fair condition.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Glad ya had a good fishing trip! Did you find anything else you needed while groping around on yer belly (LOL, been there, done that!). The pinion latch, springs, etc. were available through CAT, including the cast housing ya fished out. The housing is the priciest of the bunch, so re-build as necessary. The end should be convex with a hardened "button" on the end. Hopefully, this is so, if not, check the condition of the engagement arm end. Latch adjustment per Ed and SJ