Ran into something last year that was interesting----

Had an old boy that was down on his luck at the time do some welding on odds an ends around the shop while he was between jobs. He had welded a little bit of everything---had all the traits of a "gifted welder" (including not being able to leave the beer box alone).

Anyway----he liked to make his first pass with 6011, and then finish up with how ever many passes of 7018 that may be needed. He claimed (of which I know from the past is true) that the 6011 was a better penetrator than the 7018, while no doubt the 7018 has a higher tensile strength.

He also was a big believer in grinding and preparation before he started

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chipping and grinding as he worked. He really turned out some beautiful work. First time I had seen someone burn the 6011 on the first pass.

I have a little portable Lincoln WeldanPower (16 hp Briggs) that handles 7018 good, and a Lincoln (AC only) buzz box. Damn near ashamed to tell you what all I have welded in the past with the buzz box and 6011 rods----don't do anything but "hobby" weld now days. Might be for major repairs----but it still looks like hobby work.

Go for it

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you will warranty your work (thats how you learn).

Good luck with your thumb.

Delta Dirt

Non-existant user wrote:

Hey ttman4....if you make it to that "easy" life, .....will you adopt me?.....I could use an easy ride for a while myself too......LOL

Chris, I'm expecting it to happen most any day....for real. I'm sure you'll understand, & please forgive me, but as far as adopting you, right now I'm too busy, way too busy to do adoption paper work. I been getting about 2 hr sleep per night cause since XMass I been staying on the phone 22/7 trying to get thru to Lear Jet to place my order for that new Lear I'll be needing some day when my boat comes in!!
But I'll wing by & we'll go for a ride....I promise!!!! Be listening for my afterburners...OK?
(CatYellar Lear...hummm. Wonder if that'd cost anymore than Lear Silver when I place that order???)


Delta D, running that first pass with the 6011 is what I've always heard called the "stringer bead," or actually the "root pass."
6010 works really well for root pass too, actually for some folks better.
6011 seems to "pinhole" a little more than 6010 unless you're using DC, at least for me it does, as well as some other welders I've heard say it too. Years ago we always called the 6010 a "5P" rod, but actually I think 5P was Lincoln's # for it. The welder "pro's" & wanta-be pro's that used to let me hover round & watch, (long as I kept my mouth shut) had all kind of names for everything......
As far as I know for long time 6010 was strictly a DC rod. Then few year ago I found some 6010 AC & tried them....worked lots better
all position than the 7018 AC did.
The 6011 & 6010 & a few others are in fact a little "hotter" rod, a "stinger" rod than some others. & will burn in & penetrate, not to say the others like 7018 won't penetrate.
Actually, I usually do some kind of "stringer pass" in bottom of work,no matter what rod I'm using. If I don't have any 6010 or 11, or just too lazy to walk to the shelf or truck to get them, then I use 7018 & just lay a narrow, thin bead in the bottom with very little "wiggle." If it's vertical with 7018 stringer, I just short stroke the rod with little short up-down movements, no side to side weaving. Then next passes, weld as usual.

I better shut up, get out'a here, & go to bed before you'all get to thinking I know what I'm talking about!! I flunked a little welding class couple yr ago at local Jr College!!!!
But then come to think about it, I flunked an Aptitude Test once! And an IQ Test too......
Flunking 'em didn't bother me.....but what hurt, really hurt to the core!!....was when they told me "NO IQ Retakes!!" Now THAT hurt!!!

sighhhh.....

>)}]POOF[{(< I'm gone

Dear Welders , Dont forget to preheat the welding area about 200 degrees celcius , and let it cool down bij a welding blanket , that's a thing almost everybody forget by "havy"welding sucsess!
Nico

after a good grind/clean,heat set right,the next most important thing is position. try to fold the boom up so most of the welding is flat.after a hot root pass,small ocillation, you want to involve the vertical leg and push the arc arc up into the 1 inch plate a smidgeon, but not more than a 1/8. this concentates the heat in the root and burns the impurities out , then run stringers, half on the old bead,half on new material.I am thinking 3/8 weld total measure in the horizontal.the out of position weld will be run a little colder onthe machine.small oscillation on root passto invovle both sides, then full weave left and right , pausing at the outside, letting the arc dig and build and up,dont let the heat let the puddle overflow. this feeling for the heat buildup at the corners of a vertical weld is critical.the more you weld the more heat you can handle running a vertical weld ,but it will build up[heat] and be harder to control,so stop and let it cool. root pass.second pass- small weave.third pass left half of weld, fourth pass -right half of weld.
good luck greg

&quot;ETD66SS&quot; wrote:

I posted this over on the Miller website, maybe someone here can help me?

www.millerwelds.com/education/projects/m...howthread.php?t=1126

If you can find some 10018, it is a low hydrogen very easy to weld in all positions.