The service mans book says to remove the clutch oil pump before removing the clutch/housing. Why is that? Didn't look at the parts break down enough to see how the pump drives. Don't want to disassemble any more than I need to. Hope to pull at least the clutch tomorrow and maybe the transmission. Kind of exciting--never seen the inards of this part of the drive system.

Oil pump removal is required to get clearance for removal past the transmission drive flange.

i don't have the book in front of me. old magnet will be able to tell you for sure but i think it is because of room. you have to get the housing to come right back to clear the input shaft to the clutch. i know it is a tight fit. also when you pull the trans it has to come out a ways to get the back shaft to clear. also there is an oil tube that has to clear too.
if you have a winch or pto on the back of the cat, you have to pull the seat and steering booster so you can reach down and guide the trans shaft back in to the coupler.

thansk

old magnet, good to see you are awake, LOL

thansk

This cat does have a BEE GEE pump on the PTO -- so more fun. There isn't much room [length of the coupling] between the clutch and trans to work with so pulling that pump makes sense.
Sure great you share your knowledge.
I'll update.

ok, under the booster pump is the fine tooth coupler. when the machijne was new it would be easy to get the shafts to line up to the couplers. but 50 years later and things wear and sag. so to try and get the trans back in and lined up to the pto saft will be fun.
remove the seat and steering booster. also replace any seals you can see and check the locking things on the shaft coupler and steering booster gear.
also change the oil in the steering booster because with a pto on the back most likely never been changed.

any pictures???? old magnet and i'll be around to help you. just keep posting.

thansk