that sounds like a good setup.I am certified 1 inch in stick and wire,innershield, but that just means I can keep track of the puddle and what it is doing.whenever i try something totally new I try to ask alll th equestions Ican think of.thanks for all of your help.

greg

We always used Stoody Dynamang rod in either 1/8 or 5/32 but the last I heard it's no longer available. We always went across the idler face and only burn a rod or two then jump to the other idler. It's real handy to have a undercarriage gauge handy to see how much weld to pile on. We would build up bottom rollers the same way, just pull the grease zerk or oil plug first and weld just a little before jumping to the next roller that way the seals wouldn't burn. We'd leave the rollers on the frames and just flip the frames over in the shop..that was easier than trying to drill out broken roller mounting bolts. It was nice winter work..everything would warm up and you'd stay nice & toasty...

Stoody Dynamang had to be peened every pass while hot to relieve stress cracks and it helped a bit to shape a sprocket tooth profile not to mention you could see how great that last pass was!!

What we found out by use was that Stoody Dynamang was just about as hard as the rails/pins & bushings were..everything would wear at the same rate.

The local undercarriage rebuilder/shop that has all the high-tech buildup welding machines uses Stoody wire..go figure.