Can someone please tell me what the shift pattern is. The plate on the tractor is too worn to read and as far as the operator manual goes, either I am blind or shifting was not discussed in the book. May need a couple of pistons and cylinders if I cannot get the motor to spin. Oil poured in the cylinders does drain past the rings. I pulled the head and inspected the cylinders. #1 had some rust. Cleaned it up and put the head back on without spark plugs. Hitched the tractor up to the Tahoe and pulled the 22 back and forth while working the clutch. We got a little crank movement, maybe 10 degrees of travel. Is it possible that the clutch break might have things locked up?

Thanks,
Dave

If it is the same as a 20 I have it here some place as far as shift pattern. As for being set up I had that happen to the 20 I am restoring. After 20 years we got it running to have it set up over winter. Diesel fuel was what helped with a large bar.
Terry

if it is the same as the 15 and ten (witch i think) :
left up is reverse
left down 2 nd gear
right up is 1 st gear
right down is 3 rd gear

maybe try a spanner on the fly wheel, and a long pipe on it cranking back and forth.
marco

Thanks for the info. The trans was indeed in third gear as we pulled the 22. Guess I will give it another week for the oil to soak in. Gonna hitch the 22 up to the d4 this time so as not to distroy the wifes Tahoe. I still have the question about the trans brake. I did put a jack under the end of the crank handle for a couple of weeks to keep pressure applied to the piston, was ok till the kids tried to help and twisted the pin out of the end of the hand crank shaft. If this thing continues to be a stubborn pos I will yank the pistons and cylinder together and make things see it my way with a great big press.

Old Cats are fun!
Dave

dmgrow,

If it is like the model TEN, the transmission brake will only engage when the clutch pedal is pushed all the way in, if it is adjusted correctly. If it is not adjusted correctly, you simply wont have a transmission brake. It can not be adjusted to stay in contact with the release bearing carrier brake plate (rotating part) while the clutch pedal is out. The brake pad (non-rotating) is the adjustable part that is bolted to the transmission input shaft housing.

A friend of mine bought a nice wide gauge 22 that locked up while running and was parked 30 years ago. It was the main clutch throwout bearing.

if you take the head of the engine, you can hit the pistons with a sledge hammer but put wood on the piston, a lot of heat in that area, by making a fire in all 4 cilinders by putting some petrol and a cloth in every cilinder , or / and putting hot water( with steam cleaner )in the cooling system, can help making the pistons loos, by change of the size due to the heat.
i put a mix of kerosene and brake oil on my 15 for 2 months now already i still havent tryd to make it loose but you have to have patience with the soking,

I've got a 22 that, when I bought it the throwout bearing had failed and the clutch pedal flopped back forth with no pressure. I pulled the engine and replaced the bearing. I also had to do all the fun stuff that goes with a tractor that was sitting for God knows how long just to make it run. However it was not stuck. Now I had been playing with it for 2 years. Nothing serious heavy just a little plowing and pulling a Avery combine. A couple summers ago I was taking to a friends job site to push a litle dirt with the blade when something happened. I had it running on the trailer so I wouldn't have to try and start it later. When I got there it had died and locked up. The engine rocks back and forth about 2 inches easy but when it does the clutch pedal flops back and forth. But to step on it, it feels fine. I'd check in the clutch housing.

Thanks for the tips. I will check out the 22 tomorrow after the chores are done.

Dave