Well guys, seems like its a never ending saga with me and my parts buys. Looks like eye got the wrong track spring assemblies. They are in superb condition, but on closer inspection, eye see a couple of differences in them and the springs that are currently on my machine. (Eye previously discovered that my tracks are of the D5 variety due to the segmented sprokets, though the machine itself is a very late model D6-9U as mentioned in the tag line.)
The differences are in the compressed length, (these new ones appear to be too long when fully compressed); and, in the 'ear' thingy that lays on the track frame on each side of the spring when mounted on the track frame, ( the ones eye purchased have a 'long' er' ear than the ones currently on the machine. The other notable difference is that the new ones have a spring inside a spring 'double springs' on each assembly, whereas the ones on the machine have only a single spring on each assembly.
So here's my question for you guys knowledgeable with a> very late model 9Us and b> older model D5s............. Does it sound like the track springs on my 9U are from a D5 or can anyone confirm that the very late model 9Us have a single spring with a shorter ear 'thingy'??? (Any other insightful thoughts as to whats happen'd here.)This eye need to find out so's that we can get on with renewing dem' tracks and runnin' that machine sum more. BTW the serial is 29187, from 59' eye believe. Perciate' the assstanc....

I assume for discussion purposes that you have hydraulic track adjusters on your machine.They were available on the 1959 (29,000 series) or late model 9U's I do not have a parts book in front of me but I would think that a D6B track spring assembly would fit your tractor. You mention that you have a segemented sprocket assemby on the rear. That would be from a D5. Do you have D5 rails on the machine? The difference being that the pitch is slightly different. You can run the D5 sprockets and rails on the 9U but the spring assembly is a different matter.

Somone will need to weigh in with some parts book spring assembly pictures so you can diagnose what you have. Good luck, maybe you can trade or work something out where you can get the correct parts.

Hi Yellercat,
I thought we went through all this before...one more time:
Up until serial number 28,327 the 9U used a double spring (about 14-15 full coils) with an installed length of 24-3/8 inches.
At serial number 28,328 they changed to a single spring (about 12-13 full coils)
This 7H2445 spring was used for both Cat hydraulic adjuster and mechanical adjustment on the 9U, the D6B and the D5's. The installed length is 22.75 inches.
When they changed the spring they changed to a different style of pilot (ears) then the slide type so those long ones may have been fabricated.
There was only one pilot of the slide type used on all the 9U's that I could find. Actually I would like to have the longs ones unless they would bottom out. If it bothers you change them out or whack them off.
All the above is based on Cat parts and numbers. As I recall you had some "Okie" hydraulic adjusters that were made by converting the mechanical nut adjusters housings to hydraulic piston/adjuster type. This may have some effect on the dimensions required. To get it all "right" you would need to get the correct "Cat" hydraulic adjusters, use the 7H2445 springs and the 7H4755 & 7H4756 inner and outer stops that replace the 8B3457 pilots.

The other option is to go back to the double spring and slide type pilots.

I also see there is a change of part number for the track frame at 9U28328 so along with provision for bolting the new type pilots I suspect the recoil spring buttress is in a different location to accommodate a shorter spring.

now i'll throw a twist into the whole thing here, will get pictures after lunch of the problem.

thansk

Woody, yes my rails are of the D5 variety, with the 6.91" pitch. The D6B interchange is news to me. And, well, yes ole' Mag, eye guess we did go thru some of this B4. How long must eye sit the corner????
You have provided very good information that will not escape me again.My problem in mounting these is that they will bottom out, and in my opinion, only create another problem down the road,(not desired). Your memory is good for an 'Old' Magnet, (humor attempted), eye du have a set of "okey" or aftermarket hydraulic adjusters that eye am thinking will work, and from where eye am sittin' doesn't appear to affect the track spring installation as far as interfering with it. (Could be wrong...again... maybe not tho).
Guess that eye am ok about the spring for the moment, but am a little fuzzy about the difference in the inner and outer stops that replaced the 8B3457 pilots. The 'stops' or 'pilots' on my track frame appear to be much shorter than the 'ears' on the (wrong) track springs. Perhaps these are the later or newer 'inner and outer stops'?
If they stopped using the 'slide type' , what type followed?
Will get pics and try to think..

Lets start by identifying your track frame. Are the spring pilots/guides/stops or whatever bolted to the track frame. The early style just floated between two pieces of welded on square bar, one on each side of the track frame.
I'm thinking the problem may be your trying to mix and match parts between old and new style track frames which doesn't work without serious modification.
Has nothing to do with D5 undercarriage other than the late 9U track frames use the same recoil spring and stops as the D6B and D5 as mentioned.
I thought I recalled you stating that you have the 9U13262-29764 parts manual.
Ya got another homework assignment:D

OM - Don't remember gettin' a 'final' grade on that last (electric conversion) assignment. But then, eye guess eye never did turn in the final exam. Duh. (But suffice it to say that eye can climb aboard and fire'er up.... and the batts do recharge sufficiently to do it over and over ) enuf of that

The track frame has the welded on square bar if memory serves me correctly. I will look tomorrow and get a pic. My manual(s) are also with the machine, so again, you 'member correctly. But if that is the case, and they are early style, then the (longer) springs should fit. Probably just been bastardized in some form or another, or, eye been sold sumthin' differnt' that xactly what eye wuz told. In which case it maybe time to cut, weld, and retrofit. Eye will measure and try to figure it out while am there rest of the week.
Would that track frame actually have a part # on it ?? if so where would it be located??

Yellercat - Pics, pics pics .. you can talk until the cows come home, but a few pics shows it all, and saves everyone hundreds of words of unnecessary typing.
I think you might be the victim of a mix/n/match exercise by some previous owner, who installed the D5 undercarriage. If you can find him, or the guy who did the work, you might stand a better chance of finding out what parts he used .. and from what number of machines ..

The P/N should be stamped on the trackframe .. the problem is, finding precisely where .. and if it's still readable after nearly 50 years of corrosion has taken its toll. Look for flat areas that are easily accessible to try and locate it.

ok here we are, 40 track pads and the tightener rod screwed in all the way and it is at the end on the pad travel. is it the wrong tightener rod, (too long, check all others) did my master link weld and tightened up the track. it tightened up but it is about 1/4 past the travel pad. is this right???

also i have the 2 spring system.

more pads the better when wnter freighting.

thansk

Hi KoO,
40 links is correct with large (27 in) idler. All the double spring jobs used the 1F9490 screw. The extra length needed for the large idler was accommodated by the optional yoke which I see you have.
Yes they did have a different screw at the over 28,328 serial number and it probably is longer for the shorter spring.
Irregardless of screw length your bearing blocks are well forward on the pads which is an indicator of pin and bushing wear.
Attached is what the spacing should be. Better the long screw than the regular one that tends to strip out the adjuster nut if you adjust out to far.
Always something;)