While I'm working & doing things on this thing, I decided I better go ahead & service everything I can, especially after I had to dig the crud out of the starting engine drain tube before the crankcase would drain.

With the more modern lubricants today, higher detergents etc, I'm not really sure what should be best to use in my older tractor. After reading thru my manuals, I feel these machines are pretty forgiving when it comes to lubes, but I'd still rather "do it right" Also I been told that the newer higher detergent oils may slowly wash out some seals etc. here & there.

And I've seen some thinner oils in leakier machines doing more leaking, whereas maybe a thicker would work, yet not leak so much.
And I wonder if any additives might help in certain compartments? Like Transmission, final drives, etc. I've used Power Punch in some truck Trannys & rearends, some Hyd systems on other machines, etc. Just wondering???
But I've also seen Power Punch & other additives used in certain things that shouldn't have been.

What lub should I use in the final drives on this older 9U. My Oper. Instruction Manual says TOil, that being 90 wt. I assume 85/90 GL5 should work in my transmission & final drives??
Also under "Washing Gear Compartments" it says drain Tran. & Final drives, fill with kerosene & gently drive around to slop & flush stuff, then drain.
I haven't drained either of these, & don't know how dirty & sludgy things are inside yet.
I think some things can be filled with diesel or kerosene, run round a bit, then drained, while other things-just flush some diesel thru, let sit, then drain....it all depends.

What oil should I use in the Hyd Steering Clutch housing? Book calls for engine oil....I assume lower detergent 30 wt? Mine looks like regular Hyd oil in there now.

My hyd system...#46, 1W523, book calls for engine oil as I recall. I think mine has Hyd oil in there now....need to check.

Other compartments, like starting engine clutch, Inj. pump housing, etc call for engine oil. I assume something like 30 wt gas engine oil, or will my usual 15/40 diesel oil work in some of this stuff.

Or am I being too worrying & frett'in about some of this??
James

There has been quite a bit of discussion about the various oils and grades.
This is what I run:
Everything on a good grade of 30 wt detergent engine oil except the following:
90 wt gear oil in transmission and bevel gear compartment.
Automatic transmission fluid or ISO 32 hydraulic fluid in the pony clutch
(cuts down on clutch drag which helps engagement)
The one place I deviate is the final drives where I run Lubrication Engineers 5250 Almagear. It is a lube specially formulated for heavy shock loading. It is an ISO 1,000 (SAE 250) and it stays in there.

Either kerosene or diesel work fine for flushing.

"Old wrote:

The one place I deviate is the final drives where I run Lubrication Engineers 5250 Almagear. It is a lube specially formulated for heavy shock loading. It is an ISO 1,000 (SAE 250) and it stays in there.

Thanks OM.
If I understand my Oil Viscosity Chart, ISO#'s, SAE#'s, etc the ISO 1,000 (SAE 250) would be a pretty thick lub oil, right? Say like approx 3 times as thick as 90 wt?
I understand that wt isn't always the big factor, the shear factor or shock load is just as important.
Grease gun grease isn't all the same.
Where you find the Lubrication Engineers 5250 Almagear stuff?
I assume the local oil distributors have their own "model" of oil with similar specs, 76, Texaco, etc.
Other day I was at the Cat House sorta talking about some of this. They seem to want to sell their own brand of 10 wt, 30wt hyd. for some of my stuff, or their 50wt Hyd/Transmission oil for Tranny & finals. I wasn't really sold on them.

BTW, as a tidbit info, this 945 Liebherr excavator calls for Molydag 147/400 oil/grease for the ring/pinion turning gear. From what I can find out 147 & the 400#'s have a lot to do with temp ranges, as well as lot of other rocket science stuff. The Moly part has to do with molybdenum (sp) content, & the Dag seems to have to do with Lithium content. Other stuff I found out is that it is sprayed on under pressurized air system, has a certain drying time, & has to dry/set-up at a certain temp range...anyway, it's big-time hi-dollar stuff$$$.
The above may not be any of the fundamentals at all, but it's sorta how I understand then so far.
For all I know, MolyDag 147/400 may just be Crisco cooking grease:D
James

The LE connection is www.le-inc.com
They are based in Texas but have some local distributors.
Yes, I'm sure there are other brands/types equivilent but I am not up on the alternatives.
Your guess is about right in the 250 visc. Still pours pretty readily.
Not familiar with Molydag, kind of an odd name but I'm sure the challenge is keeping it stuck to the pinion.

All these lubes are getting pretty expensive. Easy to invest $300 - $500 for complete change outs and that's not looking at the really big guys.

Go on line to www.dalube.com They have alot of viscosity charts and such.
DA Lube has been around since 1919. They were the sole Oil supplier for the Peoria Plant years ago. My 1950 D2 has been on DA since Hour 1 and at 4955hours it has never been majored. I run Reliant series 15W40. I just recieved a shipment. Freight allowed on a 50 Gal drum with 2- 4 gal. cases. I think the 15w40 was a 1.90 a Qt. by the drum. High detergent industrial grade.
Blackdirt farmer

BDF, At the dealer I worked for they always used DA oil & the oil Co. hauled it up from Maryland I believe where their warehouse was then. For a short while then they changed over to a cheaper Drydene brand oil & then Cat came out with their own oils so they switched over to it.We had some terrible problems with Drydene in 8 big natural gas generators in some tech schools here with high carbon build up & other things so we switched back to DA even when we used the Cat oils in the shop & we never had anymore problems with the generator engines with the DA oil in them.

I chatted with a gent who worked on big Gen sets out west and they had a similiar problem with carbon built up and switched to DA and it relieved the problems. He had said that those engines had right at 100000 hours. I could'nt believe it! But those motors are in a different environment running everyday.
BDF

Use Series 3 SAE 30 Wt motor oil in all compartments except the tranny and the finals - They take 80-90Wt. 10Wt can be used in the pony in winter for cold starting.

These machines were designed for straight weight oil. Multi grade oil was not invented yet when they were designed. All compartments need high detergent oil. Cat never went for low grade hydraulic oild because they didn't have the lubrication protection to the tolerances that they had in their hydraulic systems. Actually Cat Hydraulic systems had closer tolerances than the engines did.

15-40 will not give you enough lubrication and thins out in hot weather. There is no multigrade oil made today that meets the specs of machines made from the 70s and back.

There are perhaps other similar oils of good quality made today, but Cenex has an oil called Superlube 518 that is superior to anything I have ever used. When a comaprtmnt is drained while using this oil, the walls come clean and the sludge if there is any is at the bottom of the compartment or pan..

Hope this helps

Chris