I have the brake/steering drum removed. There doesn't seem to be enough space or room to remove the pin that holds the brake band on. Am I missing something? See photos below.

Also the steering clutch doesn't want to come off. I didn't try heat as I didn't want to damage the clutch disks or the springs. Do anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

It's been a while but, I think you have to remove the 2 big bolts from the release arm before the clutch pack can be removed.

I did remove my brake bands but it's bee a while as well. I think I may have drifted the large pin out. If I can find my manual I can post some pictures.

I'll be working on my 22 once the weather (and the barn) warms up some more.

Well it looks like the clutch pack is similar to the D2 and that piece of angle iron you're using is not enough. You need some thing like a couple of pieces of 1/2x2 on edge with spacers to allow the bolts to pass through. It can take up to 10 to 15 tons of pull to get them to pop and when they do look out, I hope you still have the bolt in place backed off 3 or 4 turns to catch things. Yes you need to also remove the two bolts, one on each side to release the release bearing from the release fork before you go trying to remove them clutches.

Here is what I did to take off mine on my D2, I was using a 20 ton hydralic cylinder.

On the brake band you'll need to push out the large pivot pin.

Kevin

Thanks guys. I can always get the info I need here.

I will give it another try tonight.

I have taken off several D2 clutch pacs with an OTC puller. I had to always use a little heat (carefully). Once you have the puller tight as it can be, apply the heat and the pack will pop off. As someone said, keep the bolt screwed on and loosened few turns so the pac doesn't come flying off.

Also oil the puller screw threads.

Daron

Another problem. The large bolt that holds the clutch release lever onto the sterring clutch assembly will not come out. The one in the rear with the oiler line is out but the front one is in tight. I heated the lever res hot but the bolt only moved slightly and will come any further. I even broke my wrench trying to force it. I have applied alot of penetrating lube last night and will try again iver the weekend.

Any other suggestion would be welcome----????

Thanks

You broke your wrench?
Isn't that bolt around an 1 & 5/16" or 1 & 3/8"?

If it is any consolation in your photo's your clutch pack springs don't look compressed from swelled clutch plates.

On that brake band, you might grind a small notch above the anchor pin at the end of the band in pic #1 similar to the D2's. That way you wouldn't have to try to get that large pin out of the housing.

I've had good luck first heating a bolt, letting it cool and hitting it with an impact wrench, usually the biggest one I have. Once it moves even a little, it's time for loose juice and running the bolt in and out as far as it goes either direction. Be persistent. .it might take a while.

"drujinin" wrote:

You broke your wrench?
Isn't that bolt around an 1 & 5/16" or 1 & 3/8"?

If it is any consolation in your photo's your clutch pack springs don't look compressed from swelled clutch plates.

Yeah, the bolt is 1-5/16". I will say that I did have to modify the wrench a little to make it work better for the tight quarters around the clutch pack and that is where it broke. Not to worry I will weld a handle back on the spanner part of the wrench and try again.

No. This clutch looks good and the pressure releases with the lever pretty good, enough to rotate the clutch discs by hand. The other one looks and measures the same but the lever will not go far enough to release it the discs. The lever within the trans case hits the inside of the case before the clutch releases. As this is my first encounter with a crawler tractor I'm not sure if there is anything on the back side of the clutch pack that may cause this. Is there any type of adjustment back there?