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dozing washboard
dozing washboard
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17 years 10 months ago #2648
by waukman
Does anyone know the root cause of blade "float"(for lack of a better term)?
I'm using a d4-7u with the #44 and 3.5" cylinders. I rebushed the 44 input
shaft and the cylinders are new. the 44 spool seems ok, the blade will stay
in position. I run in 1'st gear at 1200rpm. Paying close attention to the blade
action and slight lever feathering I've managed to get fair results. It is when
I get into lightly compacted sand and clay I get the washboard grade.
The blade with cut the clay then gouge the sand. Is it a case of blade angle
or depth? or just the nature of the soil type? Rescraping in short lengths seems
to be the best method to correct the washboard when it happens
instead of blasting through with a deeper cut.
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17 years 10 months ago #2650
by Old Magnet
Hi waukman,
Fine grading with a D4 can be a real challenge. They just don't have the weight and stability. There are a couple of things that may be working against you.
It appears you have the tool bar dozer (based on the 3.5 in cylinder size) and that combination is even more touchy to operate. The tool bar dozer was used primarily with the 25 gpm #44 pump and if you have the 40 gpm version mounted it will really be touchy. The 40 gpm unit was used with the 4S and 4A blades and the cylinders are 4-3/4 bore. All of them usually have a considerable amount of slop in the linkage and pins which also makes for touchy control.
I have both 4S and 4A units and find they work best at low rpm, just off idle when it comes to the finish stuff with back dragging being the final touch.
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17 years 10 months ago #2660
by Deas Plant.
Hi, Waukman.
All of Old Magnet's comments above are valid - he's a cluey old codger - LOL. - but he omitted one strong possibility.
Does your favourite D4 have large or small diameter front idlers? I can't give you the sizes for each off the top of my head but I'd be surprised if the 'old codger' couldn't give them to you pretty much straight away.
The small front idlers are intended for mainly agricultural and other drawbar work where turning ability is of greater importance than balance. The larger front idlers are intended for mainly dozer work applications where balance is of greater impoartance. If you do have the small front idlers, you can replace them with large ones. It just means a bit of work, like breaking the track chains.
If you are trying to do delicate trimming with the small front idlers, you may not need lowered testosterone levels to go bald - you may TEAR your hair out in large chunks.
The varying soil conditions that you mentioned are NEVER conducive to good trimming, even with a larger machine. They can even give graders a lot of 'static'.
Hope this helps.
You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
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17 years 10 months ago #2663
by Old Magnet
Yes, the larger front idlers will help. They are usually part of the regular dozer group but may not be part of the tool bar package. The large diameter idlers, heavy spoked or solid are 25-5/8 in. O.D. but it's not that easy. Requires adding a link to the rails (32 link) vs (31 link).
Hi Deas
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17 years 10 months ago #2667
by King of Obsolete
yes i'm learning all about the different size idlers. that is why these BBs are so important to share this knowledge.
deas from the land down under
old magnet in california
waukman in MI
KoO in the great white north
so can you imagine the phone bill or how long the letter writing would take to figure these front idler problem. oh the computer makes the world a small place.
thansk
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17 years 10 months ago #2669
by Al Letts
KOO
If it's a cheap phone long distance bill your looking for and even include video checkout
www.skype.com
. Free phone calls across the internet or into the phone system local or worldwide. Add a 50 microsoft camera for ancillary video. Works great!
AL
D2-5U-10614
other small excavating pieces as well.
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17 years 10 months ago #2680
by D4Jim
W-Man, if you practice, practice, practice, you will be able to leave uniform waves rather than random ones.
Make sure things are level when you start the cut, take a light cut and as soon as you get some waves, back up past the last wave and go again. My D47U is an Ag tractor with small idlers and it can be the sh_ts to keep the cut smooth. My technique is to rough cut with the dozer and finish with the 112!!
ACMOC Member 27 years
D47U 1950 #10164
Cat 112 1949 #3U1457
Cat 40 Scraper #1W-5494
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17 years 10 months ago #2682
by Aaron
I had an old boy stop me one day when I had that same problem going on, he suggested that I try nothing fancy just make it smooth.
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17 years 10 months ago #2689
by wimmera farmer
Do I know that feeling with a D2 ag front idlers well worn pump home made setup.Washboard = normal operation.Try crossing at an angle just skimming the tops. Also check angle of attack on your cutting edge and try backing that of a little if your's is ajustable. Professionals might not agree but it works for me.
Cheers fro Aus wimmera farmer
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17 years 10 months ago #2690
by waukman
Thanks all for the input. All things considered, I can't complain.
The wife will be happy to hear that I need to leave again for more
practice.
On the technical side, I have the large idlers and the #4 tool bar
set up . The pump is a front mounted 8w4842 . (which is not in
the 7w1 & up parts book I have) It looks like the 37gpm unit.
Hi Old Magnet, could you shed some light on this?
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dozing washboard
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