OLD MAGNET
thanks so much, and quick! I take bacl everything I ever said bad abot you, Just kidding.

That is exactly what I needed

Clint

Thanks guys for al your help, I fired the engine off today and it purrs like a kitten sucking mommies tit.

Clint
PS: I also have a parts manual on its way

"driggars" wrote:

OK, thanks for the help so far, now I have one more question if someone can answer. I need to know the head bolt torque setting for this motor? anyone know?
Clint

"Old wrote:

From the 955 60A1-up Service Manual for the D330T

OK, If some one can help. I need the head bolt torque settings again, Please
The water pump went out and after rebuilding it, I have water blowing out from around the injector and getting in the cylinder. Is this more than likely the gaskets or just a seal around the injector chamber?

first round on the head bolts 85 foot pounds
second round 120-130 foot pounds
The pattern of tightening is starting at the center and doing all of the two middle rows of bolts in a criss-cross pattern down the head and then returning to the center and doing the outside two rows in a criss-cross pattern.

The water blowing up around the injector and getting in the cylinder could be a combination of problems, but the one problem that could cause that would most likely be if the precombustion chamber itself has a hole in it. It will have to be removed to change the seals anyway, so check it good for pits while you have it out. Could also have a cracked head or blown gasket and some bad o-rings on the top of the precombustion chamber.

Hope it isn't too bad. The precombustion chambers probably aren't too expensive (aftermarket).

Still had em on file:D . CCJersey seems to have the symptoms covered.

Hold on here a minute Drigger. Does your engine have a cast aluminium valve cover or a pressed steel one? Aluminium is on a D330 and pressed steel is on a D330C. Different engine different torques. Also the 330 has a belt driven water pump 330C has a gear driven one. OM has a file of pic to identify your engine. 85J is also a common serial #.
Later bob

Hi Bob,
A check of my TRW parts interchange indicates the 955K serials # 61H1-61H1801 uses the 330A turbocharged engine (early) same as the 60A1 series. Still a bit tricky identifying the 330TA, 330TC and 3304 engines across the K & L series:D

"bob" wrote:

Hold on here a minute Drigger. Does your engine have a cast aluminium valve cover or a pressed steel one? Aluminium is on a D330 and pressed steel is on a D330C. Different engine different torques. Also the 330 has a belt driven water pump 330C has a gear driven one. OM has a file of pic to identify your engine. 85J is also a common serial #.
Later bob

Bob

My engine has the belt driven water pump and pressed steel cover. Thanks
Clint

"Old wrote:

Still had em on file:D . CCJersey seems to have the symptoms covered.

Thanks to all, a fe wmonths ago I got this same info from you, but have since had a couple of puter crashes, I have the info saved on CD, but cant find it, to many dang CD's.

I pulled the head today, the head looks OK, the gaskets looks fine, so its looking like it is the injector chamber seal, I hope?
any know the best way to remove it?
or should I run it down to the cat dealer and let them get it out and put a seal back

Clint

"ccjersey" wrote:

first round on the head bolts 85 foot pounds
second round 120-130 foot pounds
The pattern of tightening is starting at the center and doing all of the two middle rows of bolts in a criss-cross pattern down the head and then returning to the center and doing the outside two rows in a criss-cross pattern.

The water blowing up around the injector and getting in the cylinder could be a combination of problems, but the one problem that could cause that would most likely be if the precombustion chamber itself has a hole in it. It will have to be removed to change the seals anyway, so check it good for pits while you have it out. Could also have a cracked head or blown gasket and some bad o-rings on the top of the precombustion chamber.

Hope it isn't too bad. The precombustion chambers probably aren't too expensive (aftermarket).

The gaskets look fine, and these head bolts are the hardened bolts so will take the higher torque settings.

another quick question, once I get the engine running again, and the head bolts torqued, how long should I run it and re-torque them? or abou how many hours?

I replaced the hed gasket back in January, and torqued them to 160 # but when we pulled it today, they seemed easy to break loose, just a regular breaker bar did it, does that sound normal? I figured that I would have needed to use a cheater?
Clint