Any idea to help me driving out my deep frozen pivot shaft from LH bearing would be welcomed. This Ten had lost most of its fittings, so water has done its damages almost everywhere inside. As you can see on the pict, after having poured degrip oil many time throught the fittings, I used a big puller (100tons) without succes, tried heating the bearing with a twin torch, then retried the puller without getting any more movement. then I also tried to drive out whole the pivot shaft and the LH outside bearing, but I'm afraid both the two long inside spacers are frozen too. I started this operation 2 months ago and still did'nt find the key, could any one offer me some more hope to solve that tricky problem?

frenchcat,i had the same problem with one of mine.What i did was to use Kroil.This is a pen.oil, it is made back here in the states.I will get you their address.This stuff is the best pen.oil i have ever used.The other thing you could try is to put the whole shaft in a press and try to press it out along useing some heat.Good luck.Mike Durkin

"hicrop10" wrote:

frenchcat,i had the same problem with one of mine.What i did was to use Kroil.This is a pen.oil, it is made back here in the states.I will get you their address.This stuff is the best pen.oil i have ever used.The other thing you could try is to put the whole shaft in a press and try to press it out along useing some heat.Good luck.Mike Durkin

thanks a lot Hicrop10, I already sent a request to kanolaboratories.com so as to find where to find that "Kroil holly fluid" up there in Europe, in France exactly (as I suppose customs would not accept that armfull liquid to be airmail exported) . Did you then use a large puller to get it off or was it free enough after Kroil application?...

You'll probably need to remove the whole shaft from the tractor and REALLY heat it up red and beat on the outside of the casting to try and jar the rust loose inside the bore. Kroil is nice stuff but you may also want to try melting a candle into the hole. Wax does wonders when the temperature is up the kroil just evaporates on contact with this much heat. I've removed stubborn bolts by the wax method. More than likely there is alot of play in the bore to shaft. Everyone that I took apart has been worn egg shaped. One you get the rust moving or loose it will come apart. I would use hydraulic power over the screw puller also.

Try some citric acid. Might be what works. It will dissolve the rust.

If all else fails cut it long wise with a disk grinder, then it should pull it off easy, of course you would have to replace it after that.

you could also put a floor jack under the front of the track frame and lift to get some twisting action. On my small 15 I used a 2-17 ton port a power,s
between the track frames and the above mentioned twisting action and a big rose bud

Good luck

hello frenchcat,not sure ,but are you trying to take the track frame of with the pivot ????.if you are you need to undo a the 4 bolts from the cross brace and make sure it doesn't catch on the sprocket when sliding it of .bruce oz

I think you should remove the bolts holding the bearing casting to the roller frame. Things seem to come apart better the less there is attached to them possibly causing binding.

Frenchcat - You didn't use enough heat. You need to really pour the heat on, when you have long areas that are corroded.

The whole length of the bearing needs to be turned a dull red, and that can only be achieved with BIG heating tips and plenty of oxy-acetylene.

The red heat is required to destroy the rust that has caused swelling, and which is creating the binding. The additional benefit of the heat is the expansion of the bearing .. but the primary aim is to destroy the corrosion bond.

A penetrating liquid may take a long time to penetrate a long bearing that is badly corroded, unless you build a small "dam", from glazing putty, to hold .. say, a cupful in quantity .. against the gap you need the penetrant to creep into.

The corrosion problem is often worsened by minerals or chemicals in the soil that creep into the gap between bearing and shaft, and which increase the corrosion action, and the swelling created by that corrosion.

thanks a lot to all of friends who tried to help me. Now I think I will have plenty of tuff trying all these hints and tips during winter time.
of course I already got track bolts of the bearing, but I do agree I will probably have to red heat again with a larger torch nozzle so as to destroy the rust.
anyway, for that big operation I think it would be safer to dismantle the full assy from the final casings...
I'll tell you what happen at the end, may be about next spring!...
thanks: