Thanks for your reply. Sounds like we have the same tractor, I to added a new fuel gauge from eBay, it reads low. What plunger are you referring to?
I have ordered a depth mic and plan to adjust the injectors soon. Someone has replaced the pony engine with an electric starter.
My intake/exhaust valves seem a little loose so I will be adjusting them as well. Did you find a way to turn the engine slowly? Mine was a basket case when I got it, missing the hood and some other sheet metal, but it’s fun trying to breathe life back into stuff.
I have much work to do.

To turn the engine over I had the decompression lever in low compression. Then I pushed in on the fan belt to keep it from slipping, and turned the fan. I found it a good idea to wear some good leather gloves. Wasn't the easiest thing but far from the hardest. Getting it on the timing mark was tricky. If you pass it up, you have to continue around until it comes back around. You can't just back up. It won't be the right spot due to slack in the timing gears. On mine I also found someone put the flywheel on wrong. So the timing marks for 1&3 were reversed. Also once you get on your mark you have to turn compression release off to adjust the valves .
The plunger is the fuel bypass for the fuel pump. The fuel line goes into housing on the fuel pump. It's held on by I think it was 2 bolts. There is a plunger, spring,and a seat in the front side of it. Be careful when removing it. Dont do as I did. I was trying to hold a flashlight and do everything at the same time. Ended up sending the spring flying out,dropping housing, and retrieving everything out of the belly pan. Well everything but the plunger. I don't know if it was not in there or if I lost it. I got a new one for I think $12.00.
I'm missing my floor pans. It makes it hard to operate because there's nothing holding your feet up to the pedals. Have to kinda float your feet up by the pedals but not on them . If you could measure yours to make a template for the shape and hole locations, I could do the same for you with the hood. Would be simple to make with some sheet metal. Same with whatever sheet metal your missing that I've got.

Thanks for the info, I will make a paper template of the floor plates and send them to you, (need address).

Sent you a DM

I’m checking the injector pump lifters, did you measure from the very top or down in the throat of the lifter?

Measure from the surface the injector pump bolts to down inside the lifter yoke. And it has to be done in the firing order.

Thank you , that helps.
I mailed your templates Wednesday.
Yoke was the word I was say.

Well boy did that ever go wrong. I set the adjustment with the lifter all the way down, at the TDC mark for each cylinder, set at 1.735, and stuck and broke each plunger shaft. Now I need four new pumps , you don’t anyone who has some maybe?

That sucks Guess maybe I should have told you a bit more detailed instructions. I found a few sources for them online. I know there were some on ebay.
I got what you sent me. I'm not sure if they are correct. Looks like the left side will probably work. The right side looked a bit questionable. If I get things cleaned up, and locate the bolt holes, I'll be more able to judge. Some warmer weather or at least fingers would really help. Mine has the wet clutch. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. They'll at least give me a start. Thank you.
Try this link. If it works it should help with your injectors. If the link doesn't work I could send it to an email address. It's too large to post here.

www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j...B9JxSkB4E1BsNEOV-SVF

Thanks for the link, that helps. I have already ordered the pumps on eBay, expensive lesson.
I went ahead and made me a right side floor plate out of 16 ga metal, that is close or the same as what came off, much easier than 1/8 metal that I thought about using.