New to the B. Board and see that I will get a lot of info from this Board.

Just got a 212 Grader, Ser 9T3820
I was actually around this grader in the late 60's and early 70's. It was no longer needed by the paving outfit that had it and I get to play with it now.

Needs brakes redone, hopefully just cylinders and not shoes. Having a little trouble getting the wheels and hubs off. Need a bigger puller?
Is the spindle tapered? It is keyed and the hub does have bolt holes for the puller. I have tried a descent puller and a little heat and a little tapping, no luck so far.

Thanks for any info.
Larry

Big puller, get it as tight as possible and then appply a shot with a sledge hammer to the end of the tightening screw. It should jump right off the taper, so watch your feet!


To reinstall, you need to press it back on a clean, dry taper. I believe 40 tons is the recommended pressure. They can work loose if not pressed back on.

I believe the linings are no longer available from CAT, but brake band material can be drilled and riveted on pretty easily if you have a clutch and brake rebuilder somewhere near that will sell you some or do it for you.

Just did the bakes on my 212. Wheel cylinders are available from Cat but they were big bucks. I sent mine out and had bronze liners put in them and that worked out well. I had new linings put on at a truck repair parts house and they were not cheap. I replaced all the hyd. lines with stainless and stainless wire wrap in the approiate places. My puller is a 20 ton enerpac hollow plunger type and it worked just fine with a moderate knock with a 3 # sledge. I had an adaptor made at a machine shop to push the wheel back on, that was another expence but it worked out well. I could only push back on with the 20 tons but have not had any trouble with the wheels coming loose. After all the hassel I cannot say the brakes work well. Never could get them to adjust like the book says and they take lots of peddle preasure, wears out an old guy like me. It does stop though and I did a job a few days ago on a steep road and the brakes did stop me but was tough. Hope you have luck with yours. Definetley not a piece of cake. Charlie

Hi Team,
my 99E No 12 book says 20-25 tons for the hub to axle refit.
Hope this helps as I feel the 212 would be the same, certainly not more.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Your 212 9T 3820 was built in mid 1953. catskinner

Thanks to all for the information.
I do not have the wheels off yet for a brake redo, but I am on the right track.

Putting the wheels back on "tight' has been mentioned. What is the usual way to get the 20 tons? Is this torque on the nut? or some sort of a press on jig.
If torque, then (2-7/8 ") socket and a 10 foot cheater with my 200# on the end?

Another Q is the starting proceedure.
I remember seeing something in the B Board about breaking the pinion? or something if the pony motor is not disengaged correctly.
This one seems to start ok and when the diesel kicks in the pony is shut off and all seems ok.

Thanks again
Larry

Larry, turn the gas off ofter the diesel starts and let it run out of gas in the carb.and then it won,t trickle down in the crankcase and dilute the lube oil which is not good.

Not sure where I got the 40 ton figure, might have been on the old ACMOC board, but that's gone now. I think that is what I attempted to do on our 212, because I had rigged up a fixture to allow a pair of 20 ton hydraulic jacks to push it on. Of course, I probably didn't get 40 tons because the jacks weren't in the best shape. Both of the wheels I pressed on are still on and it's been several years, so it was probably good enough!

When we got the machine, it has a wheel running loose on the taper so that all had to be replaced. The other wheel was pulled because the brake sounded like it was dragging. When the drum came off, the lining had completely sloughed off the rivets and was laying in the bottom of the drum

What I did is take a standard hex nut that fits the spindle threads perfectly and welded a "loop" of flat iron onto it so I could put a section of heavy drawbar through the loop and place the jacks between the bar and the wheel. Takes a few hands to get it setup and tightened so it will stay while you jack them up tight, but you don't have to have a hollow cylinder ram to do it that way. You will want to place the jacks so the pumps are at the bottom so they will pump properly.

I haven't done anything about the lack of brakes on the 99E yet, maybe this winter.

Hi Larry and CC, and all others. I have just begun the same project and CC got me through the main disassembly part (thanks again). My 9T1035 serial number has a 1 1/2 inch bore brake cylinder and is much smaller than the Cat replacement shows. I am having a hard time finding even the parts to rebuild the cyls. Wagner shows them as obsolete as does Cat based on the casting numbers so please let me know how your mission goes. I think that your machine is new enough that it will use the more up to date (larger) cylinder. I am trying to find parts through the sticky post here on NOS Cat parts. Old stuff is always an adventure.........JEFF

Larry I have the stuff to pull the wheels and push them back on. When you come over to P.G. You could come by and check the tools out. We can probably work out something out so you could get this done. Give me a call when you are coming. Charlie