Hi, bboaz.
People take their dogs for walks to give them exercise but cain't do the same for their machines????????????????? Heck, some men even take their wives for walks for exercise and for bonding. And they cain't do the same for their machines?????????????????????

There izza current thread on here about a D2 that was left standing for THIRTY years and now won't develop oil pressure. There's a 'kwestyun' that I'd LOVE to ask that person face to face but this izza family forum so I won't ask it here but it'z along the same lines as above,

Just my 0.02.

we were told to keep the clutch engaged on the d4 so the clutch plates wouldnt warp. but yes the fastest way to destroy machinery dont use it.

Deas and trainkid88; Like you we cannot control the actions of others. Some folks use the get a bigger hammer solution to make things work. As in my opening statement " I have a friend." That is the total explanation because he only repairs catastrophic failures or most of the time I wind up repairing his catastrophic failures. In these cases the machine suffers and gets blamed for it's failure to perform because of the actions of the owner/operator. I think the world of this fellow but he is physically incapable of repairing this machine nor does he have the facilities to accomplish the task. It would be so simple to just walk the dog.

Hi, bboaz.
Does he have the ability to start it and move it around a bit once every month or so? That would likely be enough.

Just my 0.02.

If I had to guess I'd say late multi-viscosity motor oils with all the additives and polymers are not compatible with old time clutch materials that were used with straight 30w engine oil. This applies to the graders that use engine oil wet clutches, not tractors that should use the TO-4 spec oils.

that could be the case OM the modern detergent oils might attack things. that a pure mineral oil would not. i dont agree with this trend of using engine oil in transmissions and hydrualics of vehicles and machinery. a gear lube is a gear lube. hydro oil is hydro oil.

Finished the grader. Clutch worked just as it is suppose to work. Shifted without any gear clashing and released fine. Even managed to make the brakes work with a new master cylinder, and free up the bound up linage for the throttle control on the dash so both the foot pedal and the control on the dash works.
Delta Kj; The arm on the left side of the bell housing that connects to the clutch pedal traveled 1 1/8 of an inch when the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor with the linkage set at
1 7/8 of free play at the top of the pedal and the fingers on the pressure plate set at 1/8 of an inch from the through out bearing. The clutch actually released with the pedal about 2/3 of the way to the floor a the clutch brake stopped all rotation as the pedal was pushed all the way to the floor. Hope this helps with your grader.
Deas; I told him he needs to start and move this grader at least once a month to keep things working like they should and he agreed.
Thanks for everyone's input bboaz

I can certainly understand not starting it every month. I have many machines that sit for months even years before starting them. It is not just as simple as jumping in and turning the key. I never have enough batteries to go around so my machines share batteries so it takes time to round up batteries. Then if you have a machine with a tire or tires that don't stay up more time needed to pump them up.
I work a ten hour work day five days a week and the weekends are spent building my house and afternoons are spent getting the ones that arn't going, going again so starting machines is not a priority unless I need them.
I don't have a grader yet but I have never had a stuck clutch in any of my machines but most of them have dry clutches even the non Cat machines. I guess though if I did have a grader with a wet clutch that was prone to sticking like that I would make an effort to at least start it and operate the clutch.

bboaz;  Thanks for getting those measurements for me; I'm sure that it will be helpful.  All I need now is the time to work on that "bad boy"!
Glad that you got yours back in order.
BYW; Old Magnet's comment about the differences in contemporary oil as a possible reason for the friction disc stickiness is the best reason for the cause that I have heard or thought about.

I wanted to give closure to my portion of this thread, and possibly to help someone else who is have problems with the main clutch releasing.
After checking that the maximum clutch lever movement still would not release the clutch, I pulled the engine a third time!
If I didn't mention earlier in this thread, I purchased new friction discs from Cat when I pulled the engine the first time.
The fingers on the new friction discs were  "butterflied".  In other words, one finger was bent about 1/8" to the right of center and the next 1/8" to the left of center and so forth.
After straightening all the fingers so the discs were flat and on a single plane, I reinstalled the engine and now the clutch releases and engages properly.
I took for granted that new Cat parts were to be used as provided!... Lesson learned.