B wrote:

 Where would a rusted gear be an issue with the D311 engine turning over? I

BD,
I am referring to the starter pinion that meshes with the diesel engine flywheel . 
This is hard to see without removing the top cover of the clutch compartment.
 

Uploading photos via my Iphone has been easiest for me, many of us get frustrated about the sharing of pictures. There is a thread somewhere about how to do pictures.
The tractor is a classic chicken or egg comes first IMO, as his tracks are off the right side, and its dead, so what to do first? revive the motor or fix broken steering? ugh!
BDA has some spectacular UC parts, I would not wish to insult him and offer to buy them!!!
Guys and gals, I wonder if his front hydraulic pump may be locked up?
He told me he is an ex air traffic controller, so maybe we can help land this CAT back on its feet! JM

I'll get the front pump off and give the belt a tug. Education in progress. Thanks guys!
BDA

OK, to the books I go. Thank you.

R49, I will get there eventually. The decompression valve? Why didn't I think of that? So could a person rig up a low pressure air tank and blow the MMO back out this spring (when I get back) thru this decompression valve? Thank you. BDA

B wrote:

R49, I will get there eventually. The decompression valve? Why didn't I think of that? So could a person rig up a low pressure air tank and blow the MMO back out this spring (when I get back) thru this decompression valve? Thank you. BDA

***Oh yeah, I did not ask if you tried to roll engine over with or without compression lever!!! Obviously would spin easier without compression...the little lever near the pony starter controls is to be pushed inward to open the valves, out is in the running position. Sounds like you need to familiarize yourself with the operation of the tractor; I was under the impression you knew*** JM
 

BD -
The decompression lever holds the valves in an open position, allows the starting engine to build up oil pressure and heat in the main easier. Once oil, and fuel pressure are in operating range, compression release is close and heat builds in the cylinders, When sufficient heat is built, you open the throttle to allow fuel through the injectors and IF all things are correct, the engine fires and runs.

I do not know how you would pressurize the engine to "blow" out the oils you have put into the stacks, and if an open valve, into the manifolds and cylinders.
There are only three openings into those cylinders - through the valves (intake and exhaust) and where the injectors are in place. HOW MUCH DID YOU DUMP INTO THOSE?
At this point - I do not know what you are going to do to remove that material you dumped down the stacks if you can not turn the engine, and even then if not careful you can cause some major damages as liquids are not compressible. You may be facing removal of the cylinder head.

As JM suggested - time to get back to the basics of how the engine works before further complicating the problems that already exist.
This is a 4 cycle engine - two valves per cylinder.

AS has been suggested, remove the hydraulic pump drive on front, make sure the pinion on the starting engine is not engaged with the ring gear, make sure the master clutch is released, make sure it is out of gear, any other accessory drives should be checked to ensure they are not "frozen". Then by holding pressure on the fan belt, you can pull on the fan blades GENTLY to see if the engine will turn. IF YOU DO NOT GET IT TO TURN- There is probably a cause in the valve train or cylinders, accessory groups - fuel pump, etc.

Keep us posted - best of luck.
cts

Thank you JM.. BTW the sn is 5U 7474 BDA

Wow, good stuff CTS, thank you. I got the picture. I've copied your instruction and will follow thru as detailed. How much fluid did I put in the stacks? Filled them brim full. How do you ensure the pinion is not engaged with the ring gear? I could figure this out for myself but I'm not embarrassed to ask experts who are willing to help. So, thanks again.

BD -
Consult your parts book - operators manual - they will be your best friends through this process along with the suggestions here.
I tried to give you some basics - it has been a L-O-N-G time since I was in the middle of one of those yellow machines.
There should be an inspection cover that can be removed over the clutch housing, (where you would access the master clutch adjustments)
With a mirror and good light, you should be able to see the ring gear where the pinion on the starting engine would engage.

There are so many places in an engine that can cause it to "lock up". It is near impossible to diagnose those issues from distance.
One step at a time -- methodically eliminate each one as you progress. The easiest first - sometimes one finds it to be very simple and if you get in a hurry you skip a step and end up going much deeper than necessary.
Let's hope it is simple and not a major issue - broken crankshaft, broken cam shaft, broken gear train - etc.

Without knowing and seeing --- have you done an external visual inspection of the engine, front timing cover, block, oil pan, etc. Any signs of damage or repairs - welds, etc?

cts