In reading the manual it seems to say that you must remove the throwout bearing yoke. It is accessed thru the little top plate that is under the gas tank. I have removed the gas tank and managed to slide the pin on the left side (after much struggle) but cant budge the one on the right side. I am thinking of pulling the right fender and drilling and tapping the end of the shaft, then using a slide hammer to move it out a couple of inches. "Anyone have an easier idea". The manual says to loosen the clamp bolt and slide out. That might have worked 89 years ago when it was brand new, but certainly not working now. Peter C posted some good photos on the Cat 22 rescue thread but I am still not sure why the yoke has to be removed to pull the tranny?  Am I going about this wrong?    Thanks, Grant

You should be able to just take the 8 nuts off the pressure plate (the one with the springs) . Lift the front of engine high enough to clear and or remove the leaf spring. Remove the bell housing bolts and pull the engine. You may have to jiggle it up and own to get the dowel pins to break free.
The last one of those I pulled the engine on; I had to cut the clutch pedal shafts both sides with a torch. Reason, Engine was totally stuck and didn't fell like trying to reach me hand all the way down in the clutch compartment.

Both Springs , the row off bolt that hold engine to trans , oil line , fuel line ,kill switch , ,block engine after removing springs and undo bolts and lines , roll the back of the tractor backwards and engine will slide of the trans

Bruce, I have done all of that and tried to pull the frame backwards and it jammed and would only go about an inch. That is when I read the 15 service manual again and it says (or I think it means) that the throwout bearing yoke must be removed. That is my problem. Getting the shaft to slide when you can hardly see it , let alone work in that tiny space. I have worked on plenty of cars and trucks but never had to get inside of the bellhousing and remove things. Maybe there is something else that I am missing? Grant.

Looking at your reply again, what "two" springs do you mean?

Side seat, do you mean you have to disassemble the clutch while still in the bellhousing?

Hello, I've been in multiple scenarios when pulling engines from my 22s; engine locked up or free spinning. In your situation I've used a an angled pry bar as a punch to unseat the shaft from the yoke through the clutch compartment access hole. Once the shaft starts to move I've put old sockets in the yoke bore and continued to hammer the shaft out until the yoke is free. On occasion I remove the eight nuts attaching the pressure plate to the studs in the flywheel (the throw out bearing housing is attached to the pressure plate by a large, inaccessible in-chassis nut). Depending on how much moisture may have gotten into the clutch compartment may reflect the effort required to separate the engine from the chassis. I use a gantry mounted chain hoist with an engine tilter to get the best angle needed for separation. The front spring has already been pulled out of the way and the rear of the chassis is supported by a jack stand. I also use a 30 pound, 5 foot long demolition bar for engine separation. I pry from the leading edge of the fender mounted sheet metal and the engine rear flange. If the sheet metal tweaks it can be straightened with the same pry device. When putting the engine and chassis back together I use large "C" clamps to mate the halves. I hope this info helps. Good luck!  

OK I now understand the two spring issue. I have already removed those springs. I have the engine and trans broken free but it would open up only about 1 inch. I have tried the prybar to get the right hand shaft to move and had no luck.I will try the prybar again , and if that does not work it will be on to the drill and tap and slide hammer. Caterpillar engineers didnt make things easy to work on! "I will prevail" Grant.

USPatriot, Thank you for the info. Love that photo.

Hello, this is my last two cents. I advise using an engine tilter if not done so already. It is critical to find the sweet spot, the point where the engine is not hanging up on the transmission input shaft for a good separation. Figure an invisible line through the middle of the engine crankshaft into the chassis. Thais is why I use a jack stand under the back of the chassis, to maintain the input shaft angle. The transmission input shaft is a little long. If the weight of the engine is hanging on it once the block is free from the dowels, the input shaft or input shaft bearing may be damaged. The transmission will have to be pulled out of the case for bearing replacement. Don't make extra work for yourself. These pics are an example from a Cat Ten; smaller but similar.  The clutch had sustained water damage (not my point) and the input shaft bearing race was cracked. Note the length of the input. Needless to say in this case, the input shaft didn't spin very well and the transmission had to come out. Best of luck again.     

Most likely jamed on the throw out bearing ,it just a a car there is no sharfts on tbe engine side with the clutch