johnnystc wrote:

Thanks for response, you take it to a Cat dealer to have it repaired?  I've been told $4-5000 per side to replace clutches.  Pretty expensive for such an old dozer.   

Ok.....that explains it! Having the blade pitched forward to far will also break those center trunnions.
 

I'm negotiating for a 72. this thread makes me a little apprehensive. It appears in good condition. they're asking 35 but open to offers. what would be a reasonable price?

Hi, Did you do any pressure testing? I assume your transmission pressures are normal, also the brakes are properly adjusted and working. Under the seat there should be test ports for each side. If my memory is correct, there should be 1/8 npt plugs to tap into. One way to learn if there is a pressure loss to the clutch, is to loosen the piping from the steering valve to the housing and insert a piece of shim stock, then retighten the bolts. Do this to each side separately. If pressure rises, that would confirm leaking seals down below. I recall one time a D6D with a problem in the steering valve itself. It was puzzling the way it was acting, so to confirm the valve was the problem, I was lucky enough to have access to a known good used valve of a parts tractor. One time I had to travel out to a D7G with steering issues. the problem was in the priority valve not allowing oil to the steering. Check as much as you can...once you open up the steering clutch compartments to do repairs, the dollars will ring up! Cheers. Good Luck with it. Dan

Johnnystc moving dirt costs money and your finding out why. If you cannot turn some wrenches yourself it gets out of hand fast sometimes. With a bit of mechanical sense and asking a million and one questions here and sorting the answers out, and reading the repair manual and asking more questions you can do a lot yourself. If you don't do any fixing yourself a old machine may not be for you.

If there are any independiente mechanics that have worked on older Cats before is always good too. But some places there are not many to be found.

I never had a machine of your vintage yet, but guys that have are already saying test hydraulic pressures. So that and maybe a bit of history like if machine sat for long periods of time collecting condensation and such might give clues too.

I would guess the work done to the track frame did not effect the steering. As well as the ask about the blade was not to do with the steering issue ether, more a what the heck would cause that to break. From a guy that makes a living with his tractor.

Johnny, you gotta pay attention and stick with the forum if you want answers. First they are telling you the spring has nothing to do with steering.you need to either better diagnose the steering issue by understanding how it works or get someone there who can work with you.

The question regarding the C-Frame to blade hookup has nothing to do with steering but is a side issue we all wonder how/why it is that way. (Not really anything to do with the use of a 3in pin) The picture in the last post what is that?

On edit,, I just noticed Ray and 'tractorDan were ahead of me so my comments did not add anything to the discussion.

Hi, I would like to touch on Ray54 comments to you about searching for independent mechanics. I don't think finding a knowledgeable mechanic will be an issue. However an independent mechanic with the tooling could be the problem to find. Having the flanges pressed on and off is the problem.
The seal rings are likely causing you grief, however many times I have seen the housings worn instead of the seals. the housings are replaceable, but you have to buy them!
If you are handy with wrenches, you can with the aide of a service manual, tear down the back end of your D6 , down to removing the steering clutches. If you can get that far, you would only need a Cat dealer or independent with the press tooling to pop the flanges, re-seal ( provided the replaceable housings are not worn) and install. This is only hours of work, not days to R & I the flanges. Before doing anything, make sure the Hydraulics' for the clutches are working fine!

One more thing to do first !!!!! How is the oil level, the filters and the quality of the oil???? I had seen a D8 transmission, steering clutch's and bevel gear shaft bearings on the shop floor years ago for rebuild because there was a mixture of #32 hydraulic oil, and 30w oil, mostly hyd oil used in the system. Good Luck with it ! Dan

yes, check the oil levels and the filters much cheaper to do that than to start looking at expensive things. sometimes it is something simple. our neighbour has a traxcavator that wouldnt turn well one way when he pulled the inspection covers he found a part was in the wrong way he also had the steering valve exchanged for a reconditioned unit cheaper than they would recondition his and send it back the turn around was quicker too. so it pays to check the simple and obvious stuff first.

I still need some advice on my D6C. So I got on it today and I want to explain what is happening so hopefully someone might have an idea what is wrong. I've been told it's probably the clutch but..... So here is what's happening:
It will drive forward and back in a straight line-both pedal brakes will stop the dozer in forward or reverse.

When I engage the left pedal brake and engage the forward drive (or reverse) and engage left pull drive handle, the left brake pedal will push back hard against my leg and lift from the floor of dozer a couple inches. The dozer will not move at all in either direction for a tight spin.

When I engage right pedal brake and engage the forward drive (or reverse) and engage right pull drive handle, the dozer will spin on a dime going forward or reverse.

OK, so this is what's happening. Why one side working and other not?????? Would appreciate any feedback before I just send it to the shop.


 

I still need some advice on my D6C. So I got on it today and I want to explain what is happening so hopefully someone might have an idea what is wrong. I've been told it's probably the clutch but..... So here is what's happening:
It will drive forward and back in a straight line-both pedal brakes will stop the dozer in forward or reverse.

When I engage the left pedal brake and engage the forward drive (or reverse) and engage left pull drive handle, the left brake pedal will push back hard against my leg and lift from the floor of dozer a couple inches. The dozer will not move at all in either direction for a tight spin.

When I engage right pedal brake and engage the forward drive (or reverse) and engage right pull drive handle, the dozer will spin on a dime going forward or reverse.

OK, so this is what's happening. Why one side working and other not?????? Would appreciate any feedback before I just send it to the shop.

Rt side steering clutch is not pulling at all. Teeth are stripped or clutch is worn out on the rt side.