With a lot of help from this forum and hours of reviewing Squatch 253 videos, Dad and I completed the main clutch and steering clutches. Now, I’m up to my elbows in undercarriage “opportunities.”  All of this is new to me so I  welcome all suggestions (and I subscribe to the old saying that the only dumb question is the one left unasked). I would like to add that this is an old family heirloom that will see light ranch work but primarily be used to try to keep the grandkids interested in old Yellow Machinery. I’ll start with the front idlers. As you can see from the pictures, everything is quite worn. I have checked with Holt CAT in San Antonio, Florin Tractor and General Gear for idler parts and neither had any of the part numbers I provided.  I plan to swap the shafts side to side.  Can the slot worn in the shaft be built up with weld and turned back down to specs?  If so can I do it with my mig welder?  If not, what kind of weld is appropriate?Does anyone have a source for the 1F2616 Bushings (bronze)?  If not, can anyone provide the specs so I can have them made?

I would also like to find the following if anyone has any leads:

Four Washers 4B7620
Four Shims 3B1403
Eight Set Screws 5B3135 
Four Shims 4B5003Thanks for your help and I’ll be posting roller, track frame and pivot shaft questions soon. 
Chad 

I believe the best option by far is make new shafts from 4140 or better grade steel. A lot less cost. time and effort than trying to rebuild those. Bushes are also an easy maching job, material will be costly. Washers can be made from gauge plate. You are doing a great job on that tractor. cheers WF

Washers, www.machinerytrader.com/parts/search?Par...artsSource=Machinery
Shims, www.machinerytrader.com/parts/search?Sea...rt&PartNumber=3b1403
Set Screws, www.machinerytrader.com/parts/search?Sea...rt&PartNumber=5b3135
Shims 4B5003,   www.machinerytrader.com/parts/search?Sea...rt&PartNumber=4b5003
Bushings. ???  www.machinerytrader.com/parts/search?Sea...rt&PartNumber=1f2616

shim stock is readily available. bronze bar is too aint cheap though i would prehaps use sintered bronze as its somewhat self lubricating. ask a machinist for advice. and yes much easier to get new bright shaft and make new ones than try and rebuild them it could be done with mig bronze using silicon bronze filler wire. labour wise not worth the cost as you can get bar stock close to the correct size and machine it to suit. see if you can get bronze hollow bar close to the OD you need. of course if your getting a shop to make the well they'll handle that.

check the centre section of that shaft for out of round and uneven wear (is one end worn more than the other) if not out of round make the bushes to be a nice fit and leave it alone. remember this is in retirement. its not going to work every day. that shaft looks serviceable to me but without actually holding it you cant tell from photos.

the specs on the bushes could be found by google searching the pn and look for the national stock number listing as they were in use with the core of engineers and the seabees there will be a nsn.

Hi, bpusmc.
You might like to try Chad Enyeart in Wyoming for some of your parts - 307 760 8483. He is one of the good guys.

Just my 0.02.

I second calling Chad.  He has been fantastic to deal with on several projects.  For bushings we found some at McMaster Carr that were close to correct.  and machined them a little to get them to fit.  That was easier than starting with bronze stock from scratch.  That was several tractors ago but I believe we found the correct inside diameter and cut the outside down a little to get them to fit.  Good luck on your project!

We built new shafts and bushings for mine. My friend Bryon has a lathe and wasn't to bad to duplicate them. I used 4140 stock and it was pretty close to the correct size so not much turning involved. Check out a website called bronzbushings.com, I was also able to find bushing stock very close to final dimension so again not much turning.
Look up my post D2 going in the shop, there's pictures of the front axle shafts and all the other work you're going to encounter.

      Found some pictures on my phone that might be helpful

Not sintered Bronze - may be a grade of aluminum that may also work?

Just get some C93200 (SAE660) Bearing Bronze and make your own. This stuff comes in solid or cored bars about 13" in length One bar is usually enough to do two idlers.
For The shafts get some 4142HT bar . This material is already hardened to 28-32RC . It is still easily machined in that state.
I have done quite a few rollers and idlers with these materials. Sometimes you can get away with using the original bushing by boring them out and make a new oversized shaft or, bore out bushing press a new shouldered bushing in with bore to match the original shaft as long as there's enough wall thickness and make new shafts like the originals.