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D2 disassembly complete, ready to replace steering clutches and main clutch

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2 years 11 months ago #233679 by bpusmc
With the information on this site and responses to my previous questions my machine is in lots of pieces!

As I suspected, the right steering clutch and the main clutch were in very bad shape.

I have the following questions:

The red arrow shows links that are missing (broken off) from the attach points in the yellow circle. 

 

It appears that the cotter pin may not have been installed. The broken off pieces were in the debris in the bottom of the case. 

 

I think the links broke off when they impacted the bracket that holds the lubrication “cup.”
Could someone post a picture of this bracket so I can bend it back to the proper alignment. 
The shaft to the right of the yellow has about 1/4 inch of end play. Is that normal?

 

The next two pictures are from the gear shift mechanism. I studied the parts diagram but couldn’t determine the part numbers, could someone tell me the part numbers. Any idea if they are available anywhere?

 
  
 

The last two pictures are of the track tensioning bolt.  It has so little thread remaining that it will not adjust the track. Does anyone have this part available?
 



I’m also looking for a source to get all of the gaskets and seals I will need for reassembly. Is there a source or will I need to cut my own?

Thanks,
Chad
 
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2 years 11 months ago #233680 by d2gary
Gaskets are mostly available from Cat, Olson's gaskets is a good source also. Try Florin tractor or General gear for parts. Cat has a surprising amount of parts available also. BMR on this forum has a lot of parts and is great to deal with. I have a d2 parts tractor and might be able to help you out

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2 years 11 months ago #233681 by d2gary
There's a bushing that goes in the transmission housing on the clutch shaft. You can just drive the new one in from the top and let the old one fall down the shaft.
That bent arm with the yellow arrow is part of the interlock to prevent shifting when the clutch is engaged. The rod with the spring at the back of the clutch housing attaches to it. It should be pretty obvious where it needs to be when you try to hook them together.

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2 years 11 months ago - 2 years 11 months ago #233682 by d2gary
I think this should cover most of your shifter
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Last edit: 2 years 11 months ago by d2gary. Reason: Try to add pictures
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2 years 11 months ago #233685 by Deebo
Excellent pics! If you’ve not spotted Squatch253 or Pacific Northwest Hillbilly’s channels on YouTube I highly recommend their content if you’re more of a visual learner like me.. Squatch253 has whole videos which are searchable and linked on the members Tech Library and he’s done an outstanding job of teaching and illustrating these parts, I’m sure you’d find an illustration of the correct orientation of that bracket. And thanks for the pic of the track adjuster nut, I’ve been looking at mine and wondering how it looks when removed! Always learning..

Tony

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2 years 11 months ago - 2 years 11 months ago #233689 by Busso20
The D 4 6u I have had the same broken links, found wear in clevis's, pins, holes, clutch collar was allowing to much movement forwards of the clutch yoke and would hit the adjusting assembly where links attach, replaced clutch plate, filled and drilled clevis's and holes, new pins, new collar (fixed the slack in system) to reduce travel forwards to stop the clashing yoke and link corners.

Thank you for the picture if the inside of clutch housing.

Can anyone advise the reason for the D2 clutch dragging or not releasing? My machine drags to release the clutch occasionally (cold or at temp), a touch on the foot brake or clutch brake sorts it to release fully, seems a regular theme.

Cheers
Jamie
Last edit: 2 years 11 months ago by Busso20. Reason: want to add more info

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2 years 11 months ago - 2 years 11 months ago #233690 by gauntjoh


Can anyone advise the reason for the D2 clutch dragging or not releasing? My machine drags to release the clutch occasionally (cold or at temp), a touch on the foot brake or clutch brake sorts it to release fully, seems a regular theme.

Cheers
Jamie
Hi Jamie,
I believe that the dragging you experience could be due to over greasing of the clutch pilot/thrust bearing over a long period. My 5J D2 does the same.


John Gaunt, ACMOC Director, UK
Last edit: 2 years 11 months ago by gauntjoh.
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2 years 11 months ago #233692 by Busso20
Hi John,

Thank you for the tip I shall check out how clean it is next time I need to adjust the clutch.

Cheers

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2 years 11 months ago #233696 by neil
Hi Busso, good advice from everyone here. For that bent bracket you asked about originally, I don't have a photo to hand but the bend that is on the right side of the oil cup in the picture should not be there. It should be flat. The two bends on the left side are correct and serve the purpose of getting the pin hole raised up to the right height for the linkage. Your dragging clutch could also be due to wear resulting in lost motion i.e. you're moving the clutch control lever the full amount but the clutch disengagement mechanism is not moving as far as it should. When you push the control all the way forward, it should activate a clutch brake. Your 1/4" of slop in the vertical clutch relay shaft is probably responsible for most of that lost motion but you can also check the "thrust" collar which is a brass two-piece part. That can wear internally and also contribute to a lot of lost motion. I had to replace mine and I got it from General Gear, same place that I got my steering clutch components from. You can get a new vertical clutch relay shaft bushing from Cat or if the hole that it presses into is worn and sloppy, you can just get a local machinist to make one with an oversize OD out of bronze - shouldn't cost more than about 30 clams.

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY
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2 years 11 months ago #233698 by dpendzic
My track tensing bolt/nut wouldn't tighten my track up---I added a couple of nuts behind the adjusting nut to get to good threads on the bolt

D2, D3, D4, D6, 941B, Cat 15
Hancock Ma and Moriches NY
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