Howdy gang.

I've got to pull the engine on my 22 to do clutch work. Anyone have any tips or tricks before I jump in with both feet? I sure hate to do it, but I must.

Thanks in advance.

Bill
Kansas City, KS

hello bill ,the 22 come apart easily ,first you need some good blokes of hard wood to hold engine up ,

1- remove track covers
you need to take the big spring out of under the engine by undoing one side of the cover that holds it to the track frame ,undo both sides of the little spring that bolts to the side of the sump ,place a board under the front of the rad to jack up the engine ,need broad so you don't punch a hole in rad support ,when engine is high enough you can remove the big spring ,you need to leaver the little spring mounts past the holding bolts ,when you have removed the spring low the engine onto a big block to hold engine level when it sits back down ,remove jack and brace the rad so engine will not move side ways when you unbolt the trans bolts ,,

2-take hood off and unbolt side covers .
disconnect the oil pressure lines from engine ,
disconnect the temp line from the front of the engine.
disconnect fuel line from the fuel tank on the back of tank

3-you only have undo the bolts that hold the trans ,not the fuel tank/fire wall bolts -the one that are on the engine side hold the trans to engine ,the fuel tank will stay with the back half of the tractor.


4-when bolts undone you can split the engine.
/trans ,the engine stays sitting on the blocks and you move the tractor backwards ,when you start moving it ,make sure the blocks will hold engine solid without falling over ,or if you can use roof hoist to hold it still better.
when you do the main clutch ,you should do the clutch brake and thrust bearing as well ,

hope this helps ,bruce oz

Thanks, I have the radiator off already to go to the shop (was going to put a different core in it until someone stole the "new" core). I also have the fuel tank off to be replaced, and the fenders. I hope I can remember how it all goes back....

While the clutch needs done, the bigger issue is the yoke. The slots for the pins are really worn. The pins may be shot, too. (Pardon me for fouling up the nomenclature...I haven't had my third cup of coffee yet.)

If you raise one end of the pony spring with a small hydraulic jack it will come right off. prying the pony spring atachment off the studs without releasing the tention is not so easy.
You will also need to remove the lever off the end of the throwout bearing shaft, (the lever the clutch pedel pushes on).
I have removed several of these engines without removing the main spring, including a gas 40 engine